Your opinion is important to us!

We are constantly making our site better and more user friendly for you. Any dispute, whether praise or criticism is important to us!

We welcome your suggestions!


Free delivery for orders with fruit trees or berries. Anything else, flat £4.95.
Customer service & advice: call 0845 527 1658 or email

Currant plants - the most important tips and tricks

As soon as the frost is over, we can start planting again. But how should you plant your currants? So that nothing can go wrong, you will learn everything you need to know for successfully planting currants in this article.

With the right preparation (almost) nothing can go wrong
Before we talk about the planting depth and the time of planting, it must be said that before planting potted plants it is necessarily to remove the pot and the root ball must be loosened up. Only this will guarantee quick and reliable growth. Just as important as loosening up or tearing up the root ball is the thorough watering of the freshly planted currant, so that the soil settles around the roots and the plant sits firmly in the ground. It is also useful to put some potting soil into the planting hole in order to make it easier for the plant to root through the soil.

When is the right time to plant currants?

Potted plant
If your currants have been cultivated in a pot, they can be planted all summer, but also in autumn and in the spring. Of course, supplying the plant with an adequate supply of water is necessary, especially in the summer.


Picture: Potted plant

Bareroot plant
If you want to plant bareroot currants, they should be planted as long as the soil is not yet frozen in autumn, or no longer frozen in the spring. It is important to ensure that the roots are slightly cut, since the plant then grows faster and more reliably.

When the right time of planting has come and you have dug the planting hole, this question still arises: how deep should I plant my currant? It makes a crucial difference which training method you have planned for your currant.


Picture: Bareroot plant

If your currant is to be trained as a shrub it should be planted relatively low. This means that the lower shoots should be covered with soil in any case. Due to the fact that a large part of the plant is underground, it produces many one-year-old, new shoots out of the soil, which means that there is always enough fresh wood available for training the plant as a bush. Thus, there is a sufficient rotation of fruiting wood and the shrub does not age.

Pruning is not absolutely necessary in the case of training the currant as a shrub. Here it has to be decided whether one would rather harvest fruits in the same year or would like to have a bushier shrub. If the harvest of fruits is more important, then the plant should not be pruned. If you quickly want to have a compact shrub with lots of shoots, then cut back all of the shoots to 3-5 eyes (buds) in order to generate a strong growth of new shoots. However, the yield will be missing in the following year.

Spindle or a three-shoot hedge
As the names suggest, these forms of training either have three branches or just one branch on a support. Here, the currant grows much quieter, meaning that it forms less one-year-old shoots than the shrub, since there are a maximum of 1-2 shoots to replace per year. To achieve this, plant the currant higher. In the case of a three-shoot hedge, the lowest shoots at most should be covered with soil; in the case of training the currant as a spindle, all of the shoots should be above the soil so that the plant forms as few ground shoots as possible. Lots of ground shoots would only result in increased pruning efforts, but this can be largely avoided by the correct planting.


Picture: three-shoot hedge

Do I have to prune again?
It is necessary to prune currants trained as a spindle or three-shoot hedge. Depending on which of these two variants, spindle or three-shoot hedge, only 1-3 shoots should remain after pruning that should be tied up to a support. Only a few shoots may be cut to stubs. The remainder must be cut evenly with the plant, since fewer new shoots are desired than when training shrubs.

Of course, the location of your currant is also crucial. It sounds plausible that plants bear sweeter fruit in a sunny spot than a shady one.

If you take all of these points – or at least most of them – into account, then you will have a successful plant.


Related products

Currant Standard Ribest® Lisette®

Maturity: Early-mid July Strings/berries / colour: Very large berries on compact strings, a feast for...

From £17.40 *

Cassissima® Noiroma®

Maturity: Early, late June, before Neva Fruits: Extremely large, individual fruits on medium long...

From £8.40 *

Currant Ribest® Sonette®

Maturity: Early August, one of latest ripening currants Clusters/berries/colour: Long strings with...

From £8.40 *


Write a comment


The fields marked with * are required.