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Summer raspberries (fruits on 2-year canes)

Summer Raspberries

If you buy summer raspberries, you can grow juicy, refreshing and sweet treats which are the perfect fruits for the beginning of summer and should not be missing in any garden.

   
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Bundle with 18 Summer Raspberries Meeker

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

Instead of: £107.40 * £87.40 *

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Bundle with 18 Summer Raspberries Sanibelle

Enough summer raspberries for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

Instead of: £115.90 * £103.40 *

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Bundle with 18 Summer Raspberries Tulameen

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

Instead of: £107.40 * £87.40 *

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Bundle with 18 Summer Raspberries Willamette

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

Instead of: £107.40 * £87.40 *

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Bundle with 36 Summer Raspberries Meeker

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

Instead of: £214.90 * £145.90 *

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Bundle with 36 Summer Raspberries Sanibelle

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

Instead of: £231.40 * £164.90 *

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Bundle with 36 Summer Raspberries Tulameen

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

Instead of: £214.90 * £145.90 *

%
Bundle with 36 Summer Raspberries Willamette

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

Instead of: £214.90 * £145.90 *

%
Frutilizer® Instant Solution Fe Iron Fertiliser

Nutrient salt with plant-ready iron

From £9.90 *

Japanese Wineberry

Fizzy, fruity flavour, a red blackberry

From £7.90 *

Raspberry Black Jewel

Rubus occidentalis 'Black Jewel' - Bears fruits on the 2-year-old canes

From £6.90 *

Raspberry Lubera® Sanibelle(S)

A summer raspberry that is resistant to root rot

From £6.90 *

   
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More useful information about Summer raspberries (fruits on 2-year canes)

Who could resist the temptation to nibble some of the ripe, bright red fruits directly from the raspberry bush as they pass by? Whether children or adults: this elegant fruit temptation is a pleasure to give in to. The summer raspberry is a princess among fruits: beautiful, somewhat precious and valuable - and always promising. That's why we stretch out our hand almost automatically when we pass by.

Buy Summer Raspberries in the Lubera® Garden Shop

Within the large Lubera berry assortment, the summer raspberry with its numerous varieties and raspberry selection is of great importance. The plants are from the Lubera® nursery, where they grow and are made ready for dispatch under the watchful eye of experienced gardeners in the fruit tree nursery. Many satisfied Lubera® customers already enjoy summer raspberries from Switzerland. Now you too can enjoy this unique assortment from the Lubera® Garden Shop.

The long canes and the straight rows, in which these summer raspberries usually stand in the garden, have something sublime and aristocratic about them, as does the fruit itself. Once released from the cone, it should be treated very finely and carefully and enjoyed fresh as soon as possible, or processed into fine jellies and jams and other sweet treats.

Types of Summer Raspberries from the Lubera® Garden Shop

When you buy summer raspberry plants, you will find that they bear their fruits in June and July, on the two-year-old canes that grew last year and are now flowering this spring. The autumn raspberries, on the other hand, the second large group of raspberry plants, bear their fruits on this year's one-year-old canes and will only ripen later, starting around the beginning of August. Summer and autumn varieties are often planted side by side, in the same garden and in the same row of raspberries, so that they can be harvested continuously from June until October, first from the summer raspberries and then from the autumn raspberries.

Buy the Right Summer Raspberry Plants for Every Garden

If you are looking to buy summer raspberry plants for your garden, you will certainly find some here in the Lubera® Garden Shop. Thanks to our in-house testing and breeding department, new varieties are constantly being tested and the assortment is being expanded and improved accordingly.

First of all, the ripening time is certainly an important selection criterion, although you should be aware that the differences in ripening time between summer raspberries can only be 2-3 weeks in June and July. Thus, Willamette is a robust, vigorous and aromatic early variety that works very well in most gardens, and Tulameen, with its super-sized cone-shaped and sweet fruits, tends to ripen late, in July, just before the autumn raspberries begin. With the summer raspberry Tulameen, it is also important to note that this variety should be planted in a well-drained location and also protected from north winds. The Meeker summer raspberry, which ripens moderately late, is a classic among summer raspberries. For almost 30 years, it has been producing its highly aromatic fruits regularly and tirelessly in countless gardens. For rather heavy soils or for locations where raspberries have failed several times, we recommend the summer raspberry variety Sanibelle. It is a real all-rounder among summer raspberries and also grows where all other varieties have failed. Its medium-sized to large, dark red fruits are a real treat! The robustness and survivability of Sanibelle, unrivalled by any other raspberry variety, is due to its resistance to the dreaded root rot of raspberries, Phytophthora. An absolute and exotic speciality among the summer raspberries is the black (yes black!) raspberry Black Jewel, which brings a completely different exotic aroma to the raspberry world and produces whole clusters of black, sometimes slightly whitish berries. This extraordinary black summer raspberry is originally from the American East Coast. Equally little known and a real insider tip are the salmonberries, Rubus spectabilis, which in turn are native to the American Pacific coast and ripen somewhat earlier than the earliest summer raspberries. By the way, they also form stable plants that stand without support, which is also an advantage.

What Distinguishes Summer Raspberries from Autumn Raspberries?

We have already briefly mentioned it above, but it will be repeated here: summer raspberry plants develop their flowers and fruits on the two-year-old canes, while autumn raspberries grow and flower and bear fruit in the very first year. Admittedly, this makes the cultivation of summer varieties, where the one-year-old and two-year-old canes are always placed next to each other and must also be treated differently, somewhat more complicated than with the autumn types. Conversely, summer types also thank this effort with a beautifully concentrated harvest in which all the fruit can be harvested and processed in 2-4 weeks. The summer raspberries practice a kind of division of labour: in the first year, the plants in the annual canes create the flower buds, in the second year they develop the lateral fruit shoots with the flowers and bring the fruits to maturity. As they do not have to grow, flower and bear fruit at the same time, as autumn raspberries do, their harvest is much more concentrated and potentially larger than that of autumn raspberries. Seen in this light, summer varieties offer a clear advantage for the self-sufficient grower who freezes and processes the fruit for storage, while autumn raspberries play their trump cards primarily with garden lovers who regularly harvest fresh fruit for their daily müesli or just want to nibble and feast.

So What are the Advantages?

A few years ago, we ourselves also thought about concentrating our breeding efforts on the 'simpler' autumn raspberries, but we have moved on from this idea. This is because summer types have their clear advantages in addition to the increasingly strong autumn raspberries and the Twotimer® raspberries.

1. A larger harvest per cane, as the flowering plants are continuously developed in the first year and only bud out and develop fruit in the second year.

2. Concentrated harvest - everything is done after 2-4 weeks Therefore ideal for self-suppliers who want to process and freeze raspberries for their entire annual requirements in the shortest possible time.

3. Early harvest, well before the autumn raspberries in June and July. Summer varieties overlap slightly in the annual fruit calendar with their predecessor fruits, the June-bearing strawberries.

4. In recent years, unfortunately, Drosophila suzukii, the spotted wing drosophila, has become a plague for soft berry fruits. However, the reproduction cycle of Drosophila is timed in such a way that these insidious fruit flies normally only become a threat later in the summer, so the summer raspberries with their ripening period in early summer get off scot-free. Conversely, however, the biology of the raspberry beetle fits very well with the summer types, while the autumn raspberries do not normally harbour worms of the raspberry beetle. But as we all know, you can't have everything in life and in the garden. ;-)

5. An easier and cleaner harvesting: summer varieties can be harvested more cleanly thanks to the concentrated harvest. During the harvesting season, harvesting takes place every 2-3 days, after 2-4 weeks the job is done. For autumn raspberries, the harvest can last for months. If you don't harvest or harvest too late, fruit rot will quickly develop, which can then also infect healthy fruit.

Location

We have called the summer raspberries princesses among the berry fruits. Accordingly, summer types only need the best in terms of location: full sun, light but humus-rich soils, sufficient moisture, but of course no stagnant moisture. It is especially worthwhile to give a little help with the soil before planting to ensure that the summer raspberries develop well for the next 5-10 years. Sand is brought into heavier soils; soils that are poor in humus should be improved with well-stored compost and if the garden area is a little too wet, the only chance is to fill up an approximately 50 cm high dam with a mixture of garden soil, compost or Lubera's Fruitful Soil No. 2 and plant it on top. Also, note that the freshly grown branches of the summer varieties have to survive one winter in order to sprout as much as possible along their entire length the following spring and develop flowers and fruit. They should therefore not be exposed to too much cold wind in the winter, as this can damage the canes by causing them to dry out permanently. Conversely, the raspberry row should not be protected in such a way that it does not get any wind. A normal wind flow ensures that the leaves and canes can dry out healthily and are less susceptible to fungal diseases.

No Planting on Old Raspberry Sites

Never plant raspberries in an old raspberry location, especially if the previous crop did not work well towards the end. The main problem with raspberries is not the classical reproduction problems as with other rosaceae, but the diseases that often establish themselves in raspberries towards the end of the cultivation period. These are mainly viral diseases (which can cause e.g. bushy and fruitless dwarfism) and also the dreaded root rot Phytophthora.

Planting Summer Raspberries - This is How It's Done!

The Lubera summer raspberry plants are offered in the Lubera garden shop in large 1.3l L containers and can therefore be planted all year round, if the space is free and the framework is prepared. Without support, these raspberries should not be grown, because the canes are too long and the huge fruit yield is too heavy. A framework that is approx. 2 m high with start and end poles and 2-3 wires is ideal. The most important thing is that the root ball is always torn open when planting, especially when planting between October and May, i.e. when planting young plants that have already grown a few months ago and have developed their roots in the pot. If these roots are not torn open brutally (rather brutally), then they like to stay in their 'own juice'. In wet weather, they rot away and in dry weather and early spring budding they will not be able to supply enough water because they have not sent any sucking roots out of the old root ball. This tearing open of the root ball cannot be stressed enough, precisely because it is not necessarily natural for the gardener and gardener to 'hurt' the plant.

When planting summer raspberries in autumn and spring, it is also important to cut back the canes to about 15-20 cm in the spring in order to minimise the loss of evaporation and water from the freshly planted raspberry, and above all to stimulate the formation of new basic shoots. This is because one thing must be clear to every summer raspberry gardener: the future of the raspberry plant does not lie in the thin shoots of the young plant (which you have just bought), but in the strong base shoots that develop from the root and then bring in the first big harvest the following year.

Tip: Planting Summer Varieties in the Summer

The title of this section is of course already good and logical, but many gardeners shy away from planting in midsummer. However, the hot season is the best time for planting, especially with summer raspberries, as the young plants are just rooted fresh in the pot at this time and then immediately gain a foothold in the warm and rather dry summer soil, much easier than in the winter. If you take all your gardening courage together and plant in the summer, you can almost see from the rapid above-ground development of the young shoots how the roots feel comfortable in the soil and spread at lightning speed.

How Long Must I Wait fir the First Harvest of Summer Raspberries?

There is another advantage of this type of summer planting: if you plant the summer raspberries at the end of June or at the very latest at the end of July, the new raspberries will develop so strongly that they will be able to produce a good first harvest the following year, almost exactly 12 months after planting in July. On the other hand, when planting in autumn or early spring, summer raspberries will have to wait about a year and a half until the first harvest.

Pruning Instructions for Summer Raspberries

Ultimately, summer raspberry pruning is based on the fact that the summer raspberries bear fruit on the two-year-old canes and that these must be removed after harvesting. This pruning is obligatory and must be done, while other pruning measures are voluntary, can be done and they will also improve the crop result.

Compulsory Pruning

After the harvest in June/July, the worn-out canes, which have now just borne fruit, are cut down to 5-10 cm stubs. This should be done as soon as possible after the harvest, otherwise, the planting will remain too dense and more fungal diseases can develop.

Optional Summer Pruning: Thinning of the Canes

At the same time as the old canes are cut down, the newly grown canes, which will bear fruit next year, can also be thinned out. The aim is to have about 6-7 good, fruit-bearing canes per running metre at the end of the year; however, at this early stage, at most, some additional canes are left in order to be able to react to winter failures. Tests have shown that the medium-strong canes are the best. The weak canes have too little yield potential, and the strongest raspberry branches develop too many growth cracks into which water and, secondarily, diseases can penetrate. For this reason, the strongest canes are usually not the best in the second year!

Optional Purning the New Canes in May

Again and again, we hear from customers that summer raspberry varieties like Meeker and Willamette grow too high. We, therefore, recommend cutting back such varieties completely in May in order to reduce the overall growth. As a side-effect, this also produces more medium-strong canes, which experience has shown to give the best and more reliable yield next year.

Growth Control in April/May and Height Limitation

At the end of April/beginning of May, it is easy to see how the fruit-bearing canes (i.e. the 2-year-old overwintered canes) develop; here is the last chance to reduce a cane that does not sprout well to half its length (thus making it easier for it to sprout) or to remove badly wintered canes completely and add a spare cane to the fruit hedge instead. This is also the right time to limit the height and to shorten canes that have grown too long. People often ask whether this should not be done in the first year in the summer. However, this is not advisable because then there will be branches in the upper part of the cane with poorly maturing wood.

Correct Fertilisation of Summer Raspberries

It goes without saying that raspberries need fertilisation. Over the course of the year, they have to produce vast amounts of biological material (shoots, fruits, leaves), which is cut away and harvested and which also has to be re-produced somehow. Nothing comes from nothing. The root system of raspberries is located in the uppermost layer of the soil and is therefore very well able to constantly track down and absorb the mineralising nutrients. The raspberries react correspondingly sensitively to competition, they definitely want to get by without underplanting and remain largely weed-free at the base.

We recommend 2 x 50-70 grams of Frutilizer Compound Fertiliser Plus per running metre as a basic fertiliser that is applied once in March and then a second time in order to promote lateral shoot formation and flowering at the beginning of May. If a thin layer of compost is applied in February and lightly chopped up, the first fertilisation can be halved in the effort.

Lubera's Breeding of Summer Raspberries

In our English raspberry breeding programme (in cooperation with East Malling Research) we are also active in the new breeding of summer raspberries. Our main aim is to improve the fruit quality, taste and robustness of the raspberry canes. We currently have some advanced breeding numbers in our trials and are expected to be able to bring new and improved summer varieties to the market in about 2 years.

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