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Lubera stops plant deliveries to the UK
Due to Brexit, we are not able to deliver to the UK. We are working on a solution on how we can continue to bring a wide range of Lubera plants to the UK and directly to our customers' homes in the future. However, such a solution will not be available before 2022 or 2023.

Fertiliser from Lubera

The market for fertilisers is more than just confusing. One has the impression that every individual plant needs a special fertiliser, which is, of course, can be just as wrong as it is can have too much!

Bundle of Frutilizer® Fertiliser

Compound Fertiliser Plus & Seasonal Fertiliser Plus

Instead of: £35.40 * £28.40 *

Bundle of Frutilizer® Instant Fertiliser

4 x nutrient salts for plants

Instead of: £38.90 * £31.40 *

Frutilizer® 'Natural' Sheep's Wool Pellets

The organic slow release fertiliser from sheep's wool

£37.40 *

Frutilizer® Compound Fertiliser Plus

The compound fertiliser with a soil improvement additive

From £21.40 *

Frutilizer® Instant Bloom - Fertiliser for Container Plants

A universal nutrient salt for promoting growth, flowers and fruits

From £10.90 *

Frutilizer® Instant Blue

Nutrient salt for blueberries and other acidic plants

From £10.40 *

Frutilizer® Instant Citrus Fertiliser

Nutrient salt for citrus and plants with a high iron requirement

From £9.90 *

Frutilizer® Instant Solution Fe Iron Fertiliser

Nutrient salt with plant-ready iron

From £9.90 *

Frutilizer® Seasonal Fertiliser Plus

The slow release fertiliser with trace elements for permanent crops & potted plants

From £12.90 *

Slow Release Fertilizer Bundle - for the entire year & for all crops

So that your plants are happy with you!

Instead of: £65.90 * £52.90 *


More information about fertilisers from Lubera


That is exactly the actual problem: that there is a confusingly large number of fertilisers, so much so that it is hard to know which one must use where and how. We at Lubera offer the right choice with six types of fertiliser. Two of them, the ‘Frutilizer® Compound’ and the ‘Frutilizer® Seasonal’ are universal, which means they can be used almost everywhere: in almost all outdoor crops, for roses, for fruit and berries and for lawns. And the other four types in the range are water-soluble mineral salts that can be dissolved and spread with watering water; they have a rapid effect and are used in very special cases: in an acidic moor bed (Frutilizer Instant Blue), for citrus (Frutilizer Instant Citrus), for ferric chlorosis (Frutilizer Instant Solution) and generally to strengthen plants and flowers (Frutilizer Instant Bloom).



Six types of fertiliser are sufficient. We at Lubera also only use no more than that in our production.


Fertiliser is not only for fruit and berry plants


The slogan of the 'fertiliser that bears fruit' can also be understood in a figurative sense. Of course, Frutilizer® also helps with ornamental plants, flowering plants, bedding/balcony plants and hedge plants. Don't forget this: even though we enjoy the flowers, the biology, the intention of most plants is based on fruits due to their natural programming. They do not flower because they find it so beautiful themselves, but to produce fruits and seeds. If in many plants we only enjoy the flowers, the plants don't care. In other words, only if we support ornamental plants when needed in such a way that they feel able to reproduce, to produce fruits and seeds, will they flower for our edification. The fact that we have put together the Frutilizer® range with fruit-bearing plants in mind is relevant, but at the same time, it also ensures that ornamental trees and plants can be successfully fertilised.


Do you always have to fertilise everywhere in the garden?


The answer is: No! Less is often more. And sometimes nothing at all is right way to go. Actually, the following principle applies: outside in the garden, in mature soil, one does not actually need to fertilise, except in exceptional cases. Here, nutrients are constantly being mineralised and nature is constantly providing supplies. Conversely, in the artificial environment, in a tub, in a pot and in the balcony box, fertilisation must be applied continuously and regularly, ultimately because space is not infinite but finite.


Wait for the harvest


The most popular farm rule, which we like to use in the garden, is actually this: more provides more! 'Would you like a little more?' This question is only asked in butcher shops and cheese departments where food is still freshly weighed because the answer is almost automatically 'yes'. Their own survival story has taught them this: more provides more!

But this is exactly what is wrong with fertilising! In the garden, in the mature soil, which has been regularly supplied with manure or compost for years and decades, the correct country lore is exactly the opposite: less is more. Or even more radically and actually more correct: basically and until the plant proves the opposite, you don't have to fertilise it! An apple tree that has become accustomed to its subterranean environment over the years, that grows roots that are miles long, gets its own nutrients. It has developed a fine network of agents, of root tips, which track down and absorb the released nutrients wherever they occur.

To intervene in such long-established systems with fertiliser is not only senseless but counterproductive: a superfluous amount seduces the plant to luxury consumption. It then grows much too much and, above all, it sees no reason to develop its underground network of agents and keep it fit...Perhaps there is a small "mistake" in nature: like humans, the plant has learned in its struggle for reflection that more (consumption) also brings more (yield, success)...not always to its and our long-term advantage.

So the best working hypothesis is this: never fertilise in the garden, except in justified and obvious exceptional cases.


When do you ideally fertilise in the garden or in mature soil?


  • The plant is generally hungry, grows too little, ages. In such cases, it is best to start in the spring with Frutilizer Compound, and then add Frutilizer® Seasonal for longer-term effects.
  • In moorland beds with acid-loving plants (heather, rhododendrons, azaleas, blueberries), please use only the Frutilizer® Seasonal, which has a slightly acidic effect. Here you can also use Frutilizer Instant Blue nutrient salt to change the PH of the soil downwards and vitalise the plants.
  • The plant shows clear deficiency symptoms - these are often due to ferric chlorosis (which in turn may be related to the pH of the soil or an imbalanced nutrient supply). This is where Frutilizer Instant Solution Fe comes in, using the iron available to the plant.
  • When planting a new crop, it makes sense to give the plant a "seed capital", a small supply of fertiliser, as an advance on the future. This is especially true if you give it the task of growing as quickly as possible, increasing in size and then also forming flowers and/or fruits as quickly as possible. Where is the plant going to get the time and strength to fully develop its underground root system for self-sufficiency? The fertiliser is partly also the price we pay for our impatience, or more politely formulated: for our time savings. And for those impatient gardeners, we offer Frutilizer Seasonal Fertiliser Plus - so that plants get a better start in their garden life
  • Fertilisation is also used for very short-term crops, in flower beds or even for vegetables. It should be noted, however, that the (absolutely recommended) application of rotting manure or well stored green compost will reduce the additional mineral fertiliser by half. In many cases - learning from the reactions of the plants - the additional fertilisers can be reduced towards 0, even if the vegetable soil has been organically upgraded for decades. It cannot be emphasised often enough: compost and manure are also fertilisers.


Use in pots and tubs - otherwise, the plant will become quite nauseous from hunger


A completely different case is the cultivation in containers, pots and tubs, also in borders, where the root space is narrowly limited by structural measures (curbs, walls, no deep and finite soil). Ultimately, however, the plant with its above-ground organs needs exactly the same amount of strength and energy as in the grown garden soil, in fact even a little more, because it needs more reserves for stress situations, which simply occur more frequently in the "pot prison". Here, natural mineralisation is not enough - not by a long shot, even though the additional need for fertiliser can, of course, be reduced by using compost or manure. So, in the pot or tub, in contrast to the outside garden, the reverse basic rule applies: fertilisation MUST be applied in the pot!


Instant Frutilizer® solve problems and helps quickly


It's as simple as that, at least as a basic rule: do not fertilise the garden (except in the exceptional cases justified above). And always fertilise a pot - and of course as intelligently as possible. This is exactly what we have developed the Frutilizer® fertiliser line. And that's exactly why we have put an emphasis on water-soluble mineral salts, on the Instant Frutilizer®, which can be dissolved in the watering water quickly and in precise doses, and then poured on in a targeted manner and quickly absorbed by the plant. In many cases - in the garden as well as in the pot - fertiliser should be a quick help to the plant self-help and not a medicine for chronically ill plants, which can never be stopped. This is exactly what the Instant Frutilizer offers!


  • Frutilizer® Instant Blue is the acidic type for blueberries and bog plants and can also help to lower the pH (when it has become too high).
  • Frutilizer® Instant Solution Fe is ultimately an iron type, bringing iron to the roots in an absorbable form, thereby eliminating chlorosis (brightened leaf blades in many crops).
  • Frutililizer® Instant Bloom helps bedding and balcony plants, as well as potted plants, fructify and flower. It also helps flowering plants to produce more flowers.
  • Frutilizer® Instant Citrus is the special type for the nutrition of citrus plants and is precisely tailored to the needs of citrus potted plants here in the North.


A special case in gardens: moor beds


The problem with simple solutions is of course - just like in real life - the special case. Such a special case will be explained here explicitly. A bog bed creates an artificial environment in the garden, which has a low pH value (approx. 4.5) and which allows the cultivation of acid-loving plants, blueberries, rhododendrons, cranberries and azaleas even in a normal garden soil environment (usually a pH of 6 to 7.5). Ideally, this bog bed should also be protected with a plastic barrier against the penetration of calciferous water - at the price of limiting the available root space. In the end, the bog bed can be treated like a pot or bucket: the natural mineralisation alone will not be sufficient for the locked roots. Here we recommend the use of Frutilizer® Seasonal Fertiliser, whose coated grains release the nutrients slowly and in doses over six months and also have a slightly acidic effect. Depending on the needs and reactions of the plant, this basic type can then be supplemented 2-4 times in the spring with half a dose of the instant moor bed fertiliser to support the blossoms.


The special case of the blueberries


Caution: Especially with blueberries, 'more' will never be more effective. Cultivated blueberries are very sensitive to salt and we, therefore, recommend that you use only slow-release fertilisers (Frutilizer® Seasonal Fertiliser). And if that is not enough? The best thing to do here - just like in real life - is to slowly approach the perfect solution: start the first year with a standard slow-release fertiliser (Frutilizer® Seasonal Fertiliser). If the growth result is then correct, there is no need for action. If not, next year you can add half a standard dosage of Frutilizer for peat beds, once in April and once in May, until the result improves. To see this, to understand the answer of the blueberry plant, by the way, is quite simple: blueberry plants should regularly develop new young shoots from the base, from the soil, which grow 20-60 cm in one year, thus forming the basis for future yields (and for the next years, if old shoots are also cut out). If this new growth of 'water shoots' (which are normal and positive here in blueberries) is not sufficiently stimulated, the dose of Instant Frutilizer® for the bog bed can be increased slowly (slowly!) - to perhaps three doses. In any case, it is better to use small doses more frequently than one too large dose.


The thing about growth and fruits


Now you will surely moan a little bit: so it's not quite as simple as was promised at the beginning of this fertiliser introduction... Yes, I'm happy to admit that. But just take the above rules (fertilising in pots, not in the garden as a matter of principle, except in exceptional cases) as a basic rule, which promises success simply because it covers 60-80% of cases. And now, before you lose your patience, I can dare to treat a special case again, which of course is not so special at Lubera.


Fruit-bearing plants!


We have designed the Frutilizer line especially for fruit-bearing plants (which is also advantageous for flowering plants and ornamental shrubs). But it is worthwhile to keep one special feature in mind and to take it into account when fertilising: the balance to be striven for between shoot growth and fruit set. Our goal must not only be the vegetative growth of the shoots, but also a sufficient fruit set. If this is promoted with intensive or too late fertilisation, the fruit set leaves a lot to be desired. Here I can actually only appeal to the healthy garden and plant mind: look at your plants, observe their reactions and if you suddenly see only new shoots and excessive growth, you must reduce fertilisation. Of course, there is also a rule of the farmers, which you probably already know and which is also quite common among non-farmers: less is more...This, by the way, is also a reason why we offer small fertiliser packages instead of huge fertiliser bags. Of course, it's perfect if you fertilise with restraint because you read the plant reaction correctly; but the result is also perfect if you fertilise with restraint because you just bought one or two packs for this year .;-)


Roses and currants


Yes, there are also cases where more fertiliser is needed - also for my stringent and simple argumentation. ;-) What are these cases? Rather more than standard fertilisation can be applied, where flowers and fruit yield are extremely strongly based on new shoot growth. And where you always just take away and cutaway (which would not happen in nature...), and then don't know exactly how to fill the resulting "vacuum". In our daily consulting practice at the Lubera customer service these are two cases in particular:

  • The modern permanent flowering roses: These roses have been cultivated in such a way that they produce flowers and (at most) fruit rosehips on this year's growing shoot. Without growth, there are no shoots and therefore no flowers. And every year in early spring, the above-ground rose branches are cut back again to allow new development and a new, year-round pile. And there's more to it than that: for a healthy flowering plant, we recommend a second radical pruning of 50% in June for bedding and roses in summer and autumn: it is only 'natural' that this somewhat untimely growth, which is stimulated for the plant, also needs nourishment. Therefore, in the middle of summer, Frutlizer® Seasonal Fertiliser should be applied again, and after the plant has started to grow, Frutilizer Instant Bloom should be applied 1-2 times, two weeks apart.
  • The fruit future of the gooseberries (all Ribes fruit types) depends on the new shoot. The best fruits are formed on 1-3-year-old wood and accordingly old branches must be cut out regularly. Also here 'more' for once provides 'more': We recommend to increase the starting long-term fertiliser by 30% and to repeat it every year, unlike almost all other crops. And if you want to revitalise an old, ageing currant by pruning it back, add Frutilizer Instant Bloom every two weeks from March onwards. Bloom? Yes, because without flowers there will be no fruit.


Without it works too!


Finally, I'm very happy that we are returning to simple, very simple rules. After all, there are not so few cases where not using fertiliser is the most beneficial. Ultimately, this is mostly due to the laws mentioned in the penultimate paragraph: that which bears much fruit grows less; that which grows (too) strongly bears less fruit. Ultimately, it is not uncommon for the plant to go on a diet if it loses itself in excessive luxury consumption and forgets to produce fruit or flowers. It is quite productive to think from a plant perspective: if the plant indulges in luxury consumption, it sees no reason to produce offspring. It does not behave as differently as we humans do. When it then comes into need again, when it has to provide for everything itself, it quickly begins to make provisions for the case of the worst (namely, its own death) and to form flowers and fruits, thus ensuring reproduction. If you think about it, the right reaction is quite obvious when the flowers and fruits are not in place:

  • Be sure to stop fertilising if your plant is not flowering or only slightly flowering or afraid to grow.
  • Do not start fertilising again until you see that almost no new shoots or parts of shoots are formed; often, a new and better balance is achieved through abstinence from fertilising, even without your help.

That the plant can do a lot without us, we all may still have to learn. But we certainly have something in common with plants: we actually want to survive. We want to bear fruit. Even if they (and we) sometimes forget that.

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