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Lubera stops plant deliveries to the UK
Due to Brexit, we are not able to deliver to the UK. We are working on a solution on how we can continue to bring a wide range of Lubera plants to the UK and directly to our customers' homes in the future. However, such a solution will not be available before 2022 or 2023.

Flower Bulbs for Naturalising

Naturalising Bulbs LuberaWhat is more beautiful in spring than a meadow with flower bulbs growing naturally? Hundreds of small flowers of crocuses, winter aconites, star hyacinths or wood anemones can romantically cover the lawns after the snow, or grow wild at the edge of perennial beds.

   
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Allium flavum

Yellow-flowered garlic - for Mediterranean flair in your garden

£4.40 *

Allium moly

Golden garlic

£2.30 *

Alpine Squill

Scilla bifolia

£4.90 *

Alpine Squill 'Alba'

Scilla bifolia 'Alba'

£4.90 *

Alpine Squill 'Rosea'

Scilla bifolia 'Rosea'

£5.40 *

Azure Grape Hyacinth

Muscari azureum

£4.40 *

Blue-flowered Garlic

Allium caeruleum

£3.10 *

Botanical Crocus 'Ard Schenk'

Crocus chrysanthus 'Ard Schenk'

From £4.40 *

Botanical Crocus 'Cream Beauty'

Crocus chrysanthus 'Cream Beauty'

£3.70 *

Botanical Crocus 'Romance'

Crocus chrysanthus 'Romance'

£2.80 *

Camas Lily 'Alba'

Camassia leichtlinii 'Alba'

£4.40 *

   
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More useful information about Flower Bulbs for Naturalising

A little later in the spring, daffodils and wild tulips as well as ornamental and patterned flowers follow. No matter which varieties of flowers you choose as naturalising bulbs, the flowers will become more abundant with each passing year and they will delight any gardener's heart for many years to come.

Once established, the naturalising bulbs need virtually no care, and then they will continue to grow for many years and often decades, always continuing to surprise us reliably every spring with their wonderful show of flowers. So do not hesitate to bring some varieties of flower bulbs to your garden for a display to remember.

 

Naturalising Bulbs – Small Flowers

The classics for gardening are of course crocuses. All crocuses are suitable for naturalising. The small botanical wild forms such as the botanical crocus 'Yalta' or the egg yolk yellow flowering Crocus ancyrensis or Crocus tommasinianus bloom just slightly earlier than the large-flowered hybrid varieties such as Crocus 'Jeanne d'Arc' or Crocus 'Yellow Mammouth'. Therefore a mixture of large and small crocuses can look wonderful, as the flowering time is extended slightly. Crocuses are superb naturalising bulbs and are followed by snowdrops, winter aconites (Eranthis) and Chionodoxa. The lively blue-coloured Scilla and the always-welcome grape hyacinths (Muscari) as well as the delicate wood anemones (Anemone nemorosa), who like a bit of shade, and the more sunny-minded Anemone blanda are great for under trees and at the edge of perennial flowerbeds.

Naturalising Bulbs – Larger Flowers

The classic larger naturalising bulbs are found in the extensive group of daffodils. In particular, the wild daffodils and smaller varieties can be grown as naturalising bulbs, such as the cheeky cyclamen daffodil 'Jetfire' or the hoop petticoat daffodil 'Oxford Gold' with its relatively large, trumpet-like flowers that look like funnels. But even larger daffodils are ideal for infiltration in the perennial flowerbed or in a not too dry meadow. The classic wild daffodils are the white Narcissus poeticus, which smell wonderfully intense in May. Also, some tulips are suitable for the purpose of using as naturalising bulbs. Again, especially the smaller and the wild forms are ideal, such as the red Tulipa linifolia. On wet meadows and in damper perennial beds, Camassia leichtlinii is also perfect for growing this way. They can grow into dense populations and thanks to their stately size and intense blue colour, they are breath-taking. These larger bulbs are twice as good, as they grow on locations where other bulbous flowers are more prone to moisture.

Blumenzwiebeln zum Verwildern Narzisse Carlton

The Best Location

Usually, the smaller varieties of flower bulbs are planted feral where the grass is already a bit thin, often in the shade of trees, where over time more moss thrives than grass. Such locations are ideal to spice up with crocuses, anemones, winter aconites or snowdrops. Other suitable sites are natural meadows, but also the woody edge of larger shrubs is good too. Flower bulbs can grow well under fruit trees also.

How To Plant Properly

Flower bulbs are best planted in the garden from the beginning in larger amounts in the garden. With the small species such as snowdrops, winter aconites, anemones, crocuses, small alliums and grape hyacinths, it is best to pick several areas in the lawn or between shrubs and plant the bulbs in groups. Ideally, the turf should be peeled away and set aside. In a perennial border or on the edge of woody plants in the garden, simply dig appropriate holes; anemones in particular like to settle between shrubs and woody plants. Then loosen the soil and dig out about 10 to 12 centimetres deep. Spread the bulbs loosely and irregularly on the surface and cover with soil and compost. In the end, put the turf back on top or fill up the soil in the perennial bed and press and water well. For larger flower bulbs, like daffodils, tulips or larger alliums you have to dig individual holes in the lawn or in the bed and plant each bulb individually. This can be done with a hand scoop or with a special cookie cutter for bulbs. What works less well are sticks because they squeeze the soil too much and the bulbs then have more trouble forming their roots. In a carefully dug hole with loosened soil and some compost, the plants in the garden take root much better and they form more flowers. Although the flower bulbs will look after themselves for many years afterwards, it still makes sense to make their way a little easier when starting in the garden. As a result, they will reproduce and spread better and become lusher.

Well-Groomed Naturalisation

The most important and actually the only really necessary care step in the process is an omission: the flower bulbs to be naturalised must not be mown after they have withered. First, they must be able to assimilate themselves, which is not the case for all species. But even those bulbs that multiply on daughter's bulbs must be able to calmly decay their foliage. During this process, they restore the power from the leaves back into the roots, providing an energy supply for the next spring. On poor soils, they can also be well supplied with some solid fertiliser at this stage after flowering so they can build up more reserves and bloom all the more lusciously the following year. As far as pests and diseases are concerned, there are actually only two notorious problems. One is the moles, which like to eat almost all bulbs except the poisonous daffodils and snowdrops. Avoid this by planting the bulbs in wire baskets if necessary. The second problem is any waterlogging that can lead to rotting of the bulbs. Waterlogging is to be avoided in the garden and can be alleviated with a drainage layer.

Transplanting and Propagating

Usually, flower bulbs do not need to be actively propagated to grow. But in some species, they may become a little lazy over the years if they become too dense over time. In particular, tulips can then be removed after a few years after flowering, the individual bulbs separated and individually planted with a little more distance again. Daffodils sometimes need that too, when they do not flower well. You just need some fresh soil and, above all, a bit more space. After this makeover, they bloom again undisturbed for many years. But there is another reason to dig up the bulbs in the garden: if they are to be moved. In the vast majority of species, this is done just after flowering, when the foliage is still green. In particular, snowdrops and daffodils can be best transplanted at this stage. Use a spade to prick out a cube or brick-sized clump and transplant it as a whole block. This will allow the bulbs to rebuild their foliage at the new site and next spring, with full vigour, they will bloom in the new location. Allium and anemones can also be best transplanted in this condition and resettled at a new location in the garden, for example between perennials or woody plants.

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