Your opinion is important to us!

We are constantly making our site better and more user friendly for you. Any dispute, whether praise or criticism is important to us!

We welcome your suggestions!


Lubera stops plant deliveries to the UK
Due to Brexit, we are not able to deliver to the UK. We are working on a solution on how we can continue to bring a wide range of Lubera plants to the UK and directly to our customers' homes in the future. However, such a solution will not be available before 2022 or 2023.


Clematis at the Lubera Garden Shop

The clematis is one of the most popular climbing plants with its beautiful flowers and is rightly called the 'queen of climbing plants'.


1 2 3 4
Page 1 From 9
No image available Austrian Clematis 'Pink Flamingo'

Clematis alpina 'Pink Flamingo'

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Alba Luxurians'

Clematis viticella Alba Luxurians

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Aljonushka'

Clematis integrifolia 'Aljonushka': a rich-blooming perennial clematis with nodding...

From £11.40 *

Clematis 'Aotearo'

Clematis viticella 'Aotearoa'

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Apollonia'

Clematis 'Apollonia'

£11.90 *

Clematis 'Arabella'

Clematis integrifolia 'Arabella'

From £12.90 *

Clematis 'Ashva'

Clematis Hybrid Ashva

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Betty Corning'

Clematis viticella Betty Corning

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Blekitny Aniol'

Clematis Hybride Blekitny Aniol

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Blue Belle'

Clematis viticella Blue Belle

£15.40 *

Clematis 'Blue Rain'

Clematis integrifolia 'Blue Rain'

From £12.90 *

Clematis 'Cardinal Wyszynski'

Clematis 'Cardinal Wyszynski' - very rich blooming, large flowers

£12.90 *

1 2 3 4
Page 1 From 9

More information about clematis


These plants have an exceptionally long flowering period and an unsurpassed abundance of flowers in a variety of colours - some of the flowers are even fragrant. With these beautiful plants, desolate fences, house walls and garages can be quickly covered. Many types can also be planted in pots on balconies and terraces. They are also a classic and colourful companion for beautiful climbing roses.



Clematis varieties in the Lubera® garden shop 


There are about 300 species with a variety of different flowers or sizes in the colours white, pink, red, dark blue speckled or purple. In addition, there are types with double and single, slightly bell-shaped, star-shaped or cupped flowers in our assortment as well as fragrant varieties, wild or near-natural varieties and a large number of hybrids. Among them are also double flowering, large-flowered types as well as many summer flowering varieties. The range from Lubera is a sight to behold!


Examples of varieties


In our Lubera® garden shop you will find, among other things, C. integrifolia ‘Arabella’ with pretty, intense, blue petals. 'Arabella' flowers twice, in August and September. Large-flowered types like 'Vyvyan Pennell', ‘Multi Blue’ or 'Dr. Ruppel' also flower twice. C. texensis ‘Princess Diana’ has very original, bell-shaped flowers. C. integrifolia 'Hendersonii' also has cute blue bells. C. viticella ‘Aotearoa’ with its beautiful, large, deep purple flowers and its dense growth is perfect for an arch. Aotearoa means New Zealand in Maori language; it was bred in New Zealand and is very hardy.


Clematis for beginners


Are you a beginner when it comes to growing this plant? Start with richly flowering C. viticella, such as the light blue 'Prince Charles', 'Royal Velours' with deep red velvet flowers or ‘Romantika’ in velvety purple. Or maybe, C.viticella ‘Entel’: it grows to a height of 4 m, flowers from June to August, comes from Estonia and is frost hardy to a maximum of -25°C, which you would expect from an Estonian variety.

C. viticella are very easy-care and robust and are also known as 'clematis for beginners'. They can cope with both sunny locations and partial shade.


The right location


The original location of these plants is in the forest. There they are usually semi-shaded between trees and climb towards the sun. From this original home, you can also deduce a lot about the ideal location of the plant in your garden. They love the sun, but can also be planted in partial shade without any problems. However, one thing must be observed: the root area of these plants must be shaded, as is the case in the forest. When planted out, an underplanting with ground cover is sufficient for shading. With potted plants, in addition to underplanting with perennials, care should also be taken that the pot is not in full sun. The pot can be placed in a shady spot on a terrace or balcony, and the clematis must be able to grow in the sun.

With a well-considered choice of location, you can also get rid of the annoying clematis wilt. The wilt is caused by a fungus, which penetrates the plant via injuries on the shoots or leaves. However, no fungus can survive for long on dry leaves, let alone establish itself. It is therefore important that the leaves can dry quickly. A sunny, airy location is therefore ideal, the better it is, if the plant is covered, the leaves will not get wet in the first place.

Once you have chosen the ideal location for, there is another simple trick. Insert the plant deep, 5-1 0cm deeper than it was in the pot. If the wilt should strike and you are forced to cut back all shoots to 30 cm, the plant, protected under the ground, will have enough reserve material to sprout again next year.


In a pot


This plant is usually well suited for growin in pots. It is one of the most popular balcony plants. When planting and caring for the plants, please note the following:

  • They like a sunny or semi-shady location. However, they do not like it when the root area is sunny and gets warm. Therefore, the pot should be placed in a shady place so that it does not heat up. An underplanting of perennials is not only beautiful - clematis also appreciates the shade that the perennials cast on the root area. Especially low perennials are suitable for planting underneath.
  • The pot should not be too large at the beginning; otherwise, the plant will produce a lot of roots instead of forming shoots and flowers.
  • When the pot is well-rooted, you can be transplanted to a new pot in the next size.
  • Fill in 5-10 cm of grit, coarse gravel or a 10 cm layer of hydroculture. This layer serves as drainage so that the plant does not get 'wet feet'. To prevent this layer from mixing with the soil, a fleece is then placed over it.
  • As a substrate for this, the Fruitful Soil No. 1, the special potting soil from Lubera, is well suited. And here is a tip from us: mix crumbled eggshells under the soil because this plant loves lime.
  • A tall container is needed, as they are deep-rooted.
  • The best planting time for pot cultivation is  in the spring.
  • And of course, a climbing aid should not be forgotten.
  • And please - as with all potted plants - always remember to water and fertilise.

Since it does not climb, but rather forms strong bushes, the solitary clematis C. integrifolia is particularly suitable for planting in pots. Also, all double flowering hybrids do not grow as strongly as the summer flowering types and are therefore also the ideal pot candidates.

If you want to put several clematis into one pot, the container must be really big. If the plants are planted too close together they can easily get mildew.


Climbing aids


If you would like to admire your plants on an arch or on an obelisk, we would advise you to pay attention to the shape of the flowers. Types like ‘Venosa Violacea’, for example, look forward and types like ‘Walenburg’ tend to nod. Nodding varieties can be particularly beautiful on an arch because you look up from below. They need a scaffold or another plant such as a climbing rose to climb on. Choose roses that are taller than 1.5 metres so that you can attach the shoots to the rose. The shoot tips will then grow through the crown, place their flowering shoots over the crown and trickle down. Clematis offer many possibilities as a companion to other plants, e.g. C. montana like to climb into the trees and do not need any pruning.


Clematis by Raymond Evison


Evisons Clematis can be called 'simple clematis' with a clear conscience. First of all, they are compact growing (80-150 cm) and therefore best suited for keeping in a pot on a balcony or terrace. They are continuous flowering, from summer to autumn. They form their flowers on this year's wood, which means that cutting - down to 15-20 cm in February - is easy even for absolute beginners. Raymond Evison clematis plants are the result of 50 dedicated years of searching. 50 years of tirelessly passionate breeding work led to the birth of truly modern, rich flowering types such as 'Josephine' TM with double flowers, 'Zara' TM in a soft blue colour or the particularly unique colour and shape of 'Avant-Garde' TM. All Evison varieties have good health and good winter hardiness.




Perennials types are more delicate in growth and do not grow very tall. Herbaceous plants such as C. integrifolia 'Alyonushka' or C. durandii have very long shoots, but they tend to grow in width rather than height. The plants do not grow immediately above the ground, but first form shoots which, as soon as they can no longer stand on their 'legs', fold over and then spread further along the ground. Perennial types cannot climb, as they have no climbing organs. You can direct your perennial plants very well in the desired direction and thus easily cover a few square metres in the garden. If you want the plants to be tall, you have to tie up every single shoot. In autumn, they die above ground. In contrast to the large-flowered hybrids, the perennial types usually have very decorative fruit. After wilting, they form fluffy fruit clusters which last until winter.


Perennial clematis form many more shoots from the base, i.e. they have much more leaf mass and are therefore better suited for a screen than other species. But we will not necessarily recommend clematis alone as a privacy screen, but rather in a combination planting, e.g. with an evergreen climber, which will provide beautiful blooms for a while.




The diversity of species with this plant is truly incredible. Even those of you who only plant fragrant flowers in your garden will find what they are looking for with clematis. In our Lubera garden shop, we have put together a wide range of fragrant types for you: ‘Grandiflora' and 'Tetrarose' with a delicate and delicious vanilla scent, ‘Rubromarginata’ with a strong but pleasant almond scent, 'Golden Tiara' with a light coconut scent, ‘Wilsonii’ with a hot chocolate an order and enjoy the fragrances for yourself!


The varieties of the Italian clematis viticella


C. viticella produce the longest and then immediately flowering annual shoots. The Viticellas should be cut very far down, to 30-40 cm, then they will grow more vigorously and flower more abundantly. Italian types of these plants only re-grow from old long shoots in the upper part. If you do not cut them back very much, they will become overgrown and the bloom will not be as luxuriant because there are plenty of new long shoots to supply, some of them at high altitudes. This is at the expense of the flower bud formation. Shorten the plant more deeply and make it more luxuriant and better branched. The best time for pruning is in late winter when you have more time and peace for pruning and guiding the shoots. The Viticellas are robust and mostly not susceptible to the dreaded wilt.


The texensis group


C. texensis 'Duchess of Albany', 'Princess Diana', 'Princess Kate®' and 'Prince Charles' from our garden shop are true rarities and are also unproblematic and not susceptible to mildew at all. In contrast to the perennial types, they climb on their own. They flower quite late on new shoots, when C. viticella only slowly starts to flower. The shoots should be cut back to 20 cm in late autumn/winter. And very early in the year, they will sprout again from the ground, often as early as February, even in frosty weather, which is why the new shoots must often be protected for a while, otherwise, they will rot. Here is a tip from us: place a transparent (orchid) pot with air holes, fixed with a thin bamboo stick, on top of the plant.


Spectacular fruiting


Most clematis flower all summer long until autumn; some species start in the spring. When the flowers have faded, the fleshy petals fall off and the tufts from the inflorescences are left over, which then open out tousled apart. These tufts look exceptionally attractive in the winter when there is ice and snow. The hairy fruit ornament serves seeds as a flying machine.


Particularly conspicuous are the fluffy seed heads of C. vitalba. They are called Old Man's Beard or Traveller’s Joy in England. This hairy decoration can also be found on other types. C. alpina or C. orientalis also show beautiful fruiting. Clematis infructescences are ideal for florists and are an eye-catcher in any floral decoration. They are particularly popular and sought-after in the run-up to Christmas because woven into an Advent wreath, they have a delicate appearance and bring a pure Christmas atmosphere due to their resemblance to soft, fluffy snow.


A combination of perennials


Clematis are sun worshippers, only their feet like to be shaded and cool and rather moist. The root area of these plants must be kept in shade. Various ground coverings can provide sufficient root shading.


Lots of leaves and only a few flowers


A clematis may take a few years to reach its full form, but from year to year, the shoots become longer and flower more abundantly. And very important: without fertiliser there will be no flowers. In pots: every 4 weeks, dissolve 1 measuring spoon (20 g) of Frutilizer® Instant Bloom in 10 L of water per plant and apply. Alternatively, slow-release fertiliser such as Frutilizer® Seasonal Fertiliser Plus can be applied in the spring. For varieties that are planted out, you can also use composted poultry manure to stimulate flower formation; it contains phosphorus and stimulates the plant to grow flowers. However, this should only be applied in the first years in the spring. If you do not fertilise, many types from the pruning group 2 will not continue to flower.


How can I tell whether a clematis climbs by itself or has to be tied up?


All C. montana, Macropetalas, hybrids, viticella, texensis and tangutica climb themselves. They use the leaves as a climbing aid.

Many perennial types, i.e. integrifolia and heracleifolia, cannot do this. They are – just like roses or blackberries, for example – spreaders, but without spines. With the help of long shoots they stretch up into the air, and when the shoots become too heavy, they tilt over the trees, bushes and hedges.

You are welcome to offer your clematis a climbing aid like a wall trellis or a rose arch.


Clematis wilt


Wilt is caused by the Phoma fungus. The fungus can penetrate the plant by splashing water from the surface of the soil or through kinks, chaf marks or damage done by snails. Through the soil the Phoma fungus also penetrates into the root. The disease can be recognised by brown spots on the leaves or root.

Another fungus, the Alternaria fungus, also forms brown to black spots on lthe eaves and shoots. However, this fungus is less 'aggressive' and usually does not cause much damage. Phoma leaf spot disease can be recognised by the numerous, small, black fungal fruiting bodies on the dead tissue and the Alternaria leaf spot on a black, velvety coating. Wild varieties such as C. montana or C. alpinas are rarely infested with Phoma, in contrast to hybrids, because they are able to prevent the deep penetration of the fungus and there are only small, dark brown spots. Only the large-flowered hybrids are usually attacked.

The best way to avoid wilt is to choose the right location. If the plant stands in a sunny position, the leaves can dry out quickly, and a fungus cannot spread on a dry leaf. By underplanting with low perennials, the foot of the clematis will always stay nice and cool and it can develop into a strong, hardy plant. Outdoor plants should not be fertilised too much since they tolerate only a little nitrogen.

Should your clematis fall victim to wilt, cut the plant down to 30 cm and don't be sad: the plant usually recovers the following year. Do not forget to disinfect the pruning shears.

And here is another tip: plant the clematis deep. It can be planted 5-10 cm deeper than it was delivered in the pot. Thus, it has enough reserves protected under the ground and has enough reserves in case of an unexpected cutback after wilt to fully sprout again next year.




There are great differences in the timing and type of pruning.


Pruning group 1

All types that form their flower buds on the previous year's shoots belong to this cutting group: C. alpina and the C. montana. These species and their varieties do not need regular pruning. You can cut them when they have become too big or when they produce fewer flowers over time. A strong pruning is best carried out after flowering, at the end of May. This group also includes C. macropetala 'Markhams Pink', C. macropetala ‘Maidwell Hall’ or C. montana ‘Tetrarose’. The corresponding species are also called 'Clematis atragene'. They prefer horizontal growth and love to lie comfortably and undisturbed on or near trees, hedges and bushes.


Pruning group 2

Types which flower twice a year, belong to pruning group 2. In May/June the flowers appear on the wood of the previous year and in August/September they bloom on this year's wood. Almost all large-flowered hybrids flower twice a year. It is best to cut only half of the shoot length in the winter. In this way, enough of the previous year's shoot is preserved for spring flowering. As the large-flowered hybrids age and become overgrown rather quickly compared to the wild species and become overgrown if not cut at all, a strong pruning should be done every 4-5 years. Then you should cut to 30 cm in autumn, but then you have to do without the first flowering on the old wood and will instead have lush flowering in June/July.


Pruning group 3

Pruning group 3 includes all varieties that only flower in the summer; they only flower on annual long shoots. These are primarily the perennial types and C. texensis; they die above ground, so that with these only the dead shoots actually have to be removed. C. viticella and its varieties, the C. tangutica) and all Evison clematis are also assigned to pruning group 3. For these types, this means a strong pruning is necessary in order to encourage the formation of long, new shoots with numerous, large flowers. In early winter, the shoots of these can be shortened to 30-50 cm. If you do not prune back the types of pruning group 3, they will become glabrous over time and also lose their flowering splendour.


Is it poisonous?


For animals such as guinea pigs, hamsters, turtles, hares, rabbits, horses, cows, sheep, goats, etc., the consumption of the clematis (Fam.: Ranunculaceae) is fatal. But only in larger quantities. And mostly the animals instinctively spit out the plant. The toxin protoanemonin contained in the plant can cause inflammation in humans and animals if the plant sap comes into contact with the skin.


Medicinal plant


In homoeopathy, the wild-growing species (C. vitalba/C. recta) is used for lymph node inflammations and skin diseases as well as for gonorrhoea. And popularly, the plants are used for skin diseases, including eczema, rheumatic complaints and gout. The fresh leaves of C. vitalba are used for superficial varicose vein ulcers.

Tag cloud