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White currants (Ribest)

Whitecurrant Glasperle Lubera

Probably the most important motivation of most garden owners to buy white currants is that the fruits of the light varieties are perceived as milder in taste than the red- and black-berried bushes.

   
 
Currant Luberissima Ribest® Glasperle®

A late variety with white, almost glassy fruits

£41.90 *

Currant Ribest® Blanchette®

White currant: a large-fruited, early variety

From £8.40 *

Currant Ribest® Glasperle®

A late variety with white, almost glassy fruits

From £8.40 *

Moreberry®: red AND white currants in one pot

Red currant Ribest® Sonette® and white currant Ribest® Blanchette®; Ribes rubrum

£19.40 *

   
 

More useful information about White currants (Ribest)

The acidity is less intense and until a few years ago, the light berries actually tasted somewhat more subtle in terms of aroma. However, modern breeding strategies, such as those we use at Lubera, have somewhat blended these differences and corrected them in favour of a generally favourable taste experience, which characterises all of the new Lubera currants. If you decide to buy white currants today, there is only a difference in the colour of the strings, and the visual appeal of this difference, for example when planted as a multi-coloured hedge in a group, is brought out perfectly. Otherwise, the strong young plants of our white varieties are characterised by their healthy and upright growth. The bushes are not only more fruity but also surprisingly productive and our white varieties are much better tasting than the sometimes unfoundedly highly praised 'old' varieties that grew in our grandparents' gardens decades ago. And how often, back then, when we put ripe berries full of the sweetest expectations freshly picked from the bush into our mouths, did we think this: 'What a pity, they don't even taste half as good as they actually look?'

High yielding white currants from Lubera

With our white currants Ribest® Blanchette® and Ribest® Glasperle® we offer you two carefully cultivated top varieties with different ripening times. In addition, we offer our popular Moreberries® with which we have brought a particularly beautiful and high-yield combination of red and white currants to the market. Whether grown as a spindle, bush or trellis, this colourful duo extends the harvesting period from usually two to three weeks to a full two months. All of the varieties we offer are exclusive Lubera cultivars, which not only convince with their taste qualities but also with their high optical ornamental value. In addition, our Lubera young plants, which we send to you, are already extremely robust, very resistant to fungal diseases and of course hardy.

Whitecurrant Glasperle Lubera

Especially versatile is the early white currant Ribest® Blanchette®, which you can order in the Lubera shop asa  single plant and which is also delivered as a perennial shrub for a new hedge or as a strong standard in a 5-litre container. The fruity and very large berries are ripe for picking from mid-June to early July and are characterised by their mild taste. Even sweeter are the fruits of Ribest® Glasperle®, which ripen from mid-July and already provide for almost gigantic yields. This white currant forms extremely long strings; it belongs to the particularly robust varieties and is excellently suitable for growing as a spindle or also three-branch hedge. The almost glassy berries also cut a fine figure in your garden as a trellis or as a single bush. This attractive appearance and the ornamental value of the fruit is super. The plants, which are already very vigorous when delivered, take up only one square metre of space, grow to a height of 160 centimetres and can therefore also be grown in tubs on a balcony or a sunlit mini terrace.

Location

Since they are not a separate species and differ from their red currant counterparts only by the colour of their fruits, the cultivation of white currants is almost as easy as you are used to from our top varieties of red varieties such as Ribest® Babette®, Ribest® Decorette® or the particularly aromatic Ribest® Susette®. All of these shrubs prefer a light and slightly sunny place in your garden. However, the location must not be exposed to the blazing sun the whole day and especially for the white varieties a semi-shaded site in the wind-protected area of the house garden and if possible still outside of frost depressions is highly recommended. The best yields of white currants are achieved in soils with a low lime content and a high content of organic substances when their pH value is on average between 5.5 and 7.5. When choosing a location, please also bear in mind that the planting soil should be well-drained, because although currants are generally considered to be quite undemanding, they do not like stagnant moisture, which often occurs after days of continuous rain.

Planting white currants in the garden

Healthy young plants are one of the most important basic requirements for stable development of white currants and this is exactly where you should not make savings in the wrong place. That is why you can look forward to a lush harvest after only a short time - in the case of a spring planting in the same year - with our two to three-year-old container plants in 5 L pots, which we deliver with a fully rooted root ball and strong shoots. You can plant these plants during the entire growing season, as all of our plants are delivered in pots with a root ball. Since white currants develop the best fruit quality on one-year-old shoots, you should plant the plants as low as possible, thus increasing their natural tendency to form new shoots in a very simple way.

Strong plants in 5 L pots - for fast yield and flexible plantings

Even though it is very trendy, especially during the first weeks of spring, to redesign your garden and bring a lot of new plants into the ground, the even better planting date for most Ribes species is in autumn. The white currants, as well as the coloured varieties, therefore still have enough time to take root just before winter; they can start growing immediately after their dormancy during the cold period at the beginning of March and will already produce a large number of flowers in the first year. But as I said, apart from the ideal planting time in autumn (from August to October/November), most currant lovers cannot resist the temptation of spring (plant now!), which is understandable. This is another reason why our strong plant quality (pots with a volume of 5 L) is advantageous: even when planted in the spring, such a strong plant manages, thanks to its larger reserves, to do the balancing act of sprouting and growing as well as forming flowers and first fruits.

Growing and planting distances

Depending on the training system chosen, the plants must have a sufficient distance between each other, which should be between 100 and 150 centimetres for bushes. On the other hand, 100 or 80 centimetres should be aimed for in the case of three-branch hedges or when growing as spindle plants, and you can also manage with 100 centimetres for our standards. When the planting pit is dug out, plan at least twice the size of the root ball. White currant bushes must be planted so deep that the top edge of the root ball can be filled with soil to a depth of between five and eight centimetres. If you have decided to grow them as a three-branch hedge or spindle, the plants should be planted as high as possible, as this limits the formation of basal shoots to a large extent, which is not desired with spindles and three-branch hedges, unlike bushes.

We have already included descriptions of the three most widespread training systems for red, black and white currants in a very detailed article in our garden book. At this point, therefore, only a few basic facts you should know about bushes, three-branch hedges and spindles.

Raising white currants as a bush

Growing white currants as a bush or shrub is primarily used in private gardens, whereby in the interest of constant new formation of strong, young ground shoots, it must be ensured that the white currants are actually pruned regularly. The primary goal of this rejuvenation work is the development of annual wood, which in turn is the most important prerequisite for the best possible fruit quality and high harvest volumes, which can be repeated over the years. The ultimate aim is to "replant" a shrub with 8 to 12 shoots within 3-4 years, i.e. to renew it completely. To achieve this, the 2-3 oldest, most lignified and least fertile shoots should be cut out every year.

Raising as a three-branch hedge

Already at the beginning of this cultivation method, a maximum of three strongest shoots remain on the plant. In the following years, these shoots are tied up on a scaffold and fixed at the ends. When the strings ripen almost simultaneously, the best fruit quality is achieved, as the plant receives full sunlight and can dry out comparatively quickly to the inside if there is a lot of rainfall. When growing white currants as hedges, three thin steel wires are stretched between at least two sturdy wooden poles (at a height of approx. 50, 100 and 150 cm respectively), to which the leader shoots are later attached with wire loops or plastic clamps.

Raising as a spindle

With this method, which is suitable, for example, for weakly growing locations, very good to excellent harvest results can still be achieved with single-spindle training. In contrast to the three-branch hedge, only one shoot is left on the plant when it is inserted into the ground, which is tied to a wooden post with wire. Since the formation of soil shoots is undesirable, plant your white currants at a slightly elevated height.

Pruning

Currant bushes generally belong to the group of garden plants that do not require a lot of care but do require regular maintenance. Despite the unfortunately still widespread opinion that pruning shrubs would be particularly complicated, these prejudices do not apply to white currants (and currants in general). In fact, it is not possible to prune the plants incorrectly or even too much because the real problem is simply that in the majority of cases and gardens currants are not pruned at all for several years. The result is that the wood becomes older and less fertile, the plant ages more and more and produces fewer and fewer new shoots and ages prematurely, so to speak.

Other care

In addition to regular fertilisation, sufficient watering is required, especially in hot and dry weather because the plants must never dry out completely, especially in the root area. If possible, the leaves and growing fruit should not come into contact with the water. Particularly when planting currants in the garden for the first time, it is best to check your shrubs regularly for pests or emerging plant diseases, which unfortunately can never be completely ruled out, especially in the case of strong foliage growth or unfavourable weather conditions. If detected early enough, you can prevent impending harvest losses and can look forward to a particularly tasty snack fruit later on.

Harvest

White currants, like the colourful varieties, rarely ripen simultaneously. This means that you can harvest the plants several times during the summer months. It is much easier to harvest whole strings rather than individual berries. The fully ripe fruits taste uniquely aromatic when picked fresh from the bush and their aroma is reminiscent of champagne. Berries that are not yet fully ripe are ideal for boiling down or are stored in the freezer for the winter months when vitamins are low. Unfortunately, white currants are also among the favourite delicacies of many garden birds. So from mid-June to August, keep a particularly watchful eye on your shrubs and better protect the plants with a suitable bird protection net against the feathered berry predators.

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