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Markus Kobelt

Raspberry plants

Raspberry plant

When you buy raspberry plants, you make a good choice. Raspberries are the most popular berry fruit in the garden - next to strawberries. The consumption of raspberry fruits has also risen sharply in the last 10 to 20 years. This is because raspberries are rightly attributed many health-promoting effects (anthocyanins, antioxidant effects, various vitamins) and so they are often counted among the so-called superfruits or superfoods. In any case, you can find fresh raspberries in the supermarket almost all year round.

Buy Raspberry Plants - The Large Selection in the Lubera Garden Shop

What could be more natural than to grow raspberry plants in your own garden, where you can control the quality of the fruit yourself. In addition, raspberries (which are not coincidentally counted among the soft fruits) have little storage and transport capacity; the shortest route is always the best - putting raspberry cultivation in your own garden back in pole position. Finally, compared to the other bush berries, raspberry plants are also the type of fruit that leads the fastest to success, to the first harvest. If autumn raspberry plants are planted in May, the first fruits can be expected the same year. So, there are more than enough reasons to plant raspberries in your own garden. And in addition to this obligation (keyword: "healthy eating"), there is also this: the delicate fruits, harvested fresh and ripe from raspberry bushes, quite simply have a fantastic aroma that most supermarket fruits don't even come close to.

   
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Our Varied Raspberry Plant Assortment

Raspberry plants are one of the specialities of Lubera's own nursery - our shop assortment is accordingly extensive. When you want to order raspberry plants, you should ask yourself the following questions: Which is the best raspberry variety for my garden, for my taste? Which varieties are the easiest to cultivate?

First of all, in the Lubera® Garden Shop, we have a wide range of both autumn raspberries and summer raspberries, which are on two-year-old canes. The best-selling and most popular twice-bearing raspberry Twotimer® Raspberry Sugana® was even invented and bred by Lubera.

  • In addition, we also offer specialities in our shop, such as salmonberries from the Pacific Northwest of the USA or raspberry varieties specially bred for use in tubs or pots.
  • Another speciality is the yellow raspberries, which can enrich the raspberry cultivation in your garden optically; and they mostly taste even sweeter than the red sister raspberry varieties.
  • Of course, we also have thornless raspberries - with the new, giant and fruity autumn raspberry Primeberry® Malling Happy® we set new standards in fruit size, taste and yield.
  • Other special features are the black types and the purple types, which not only introduce an additional colour into the fruit garden but also a new and very special attractive aroma. The black varieties (botanically Rubus occidentalis) do not originally come from Europe either but from the east coast of the USA.

Advantages of the Lubera® Raspberry Varieties

Lubera® maintains the largest raspberry cultivation program for the home garden in Europe and can therefore regularly introduce innovations that make growing raspberry plants in your own garden even more attractive. Thanks to our sales in the Lubera garden shop and our consulting activities, we know the needs of home garden raspberry enthusiasts - and can then gear our breeding efforts towards them. In recent years, we have focused on raspberries for pots and dwarf raspberries to enable cultivation on balconies and terraces. Likewise, the raspberry varieties and concept of the double-bearing Twotimer® raspberries originate from our company. Currently, we are trying to complete the colour palette of raspberry plants with yellow, black and purple varieties. But our main goal in breeding and selecting the best raspberry varieties is to make growing even easier and harvesting even more reliable and faster.

The Objectives of Raspberry Breeding at Lubera® are the Following:

In addition to improving and increasing the fruit and fruit quality, the current breeding work at Lubera focuses on the goal of developing new varieties that are self-sustaining, medium-high and as thornless as possible; for the home garden, we are also aiming for raspberry varieties that can be grown all year round, from June to October. And, of course, we are always happy to hear about new flavour and colour variations. And the selection of pot varieties with compact growth (one group super compact with only 50 cm, one group compact with up to 100 cm) will, of course, be further expanded.

The Right Raspberry Plant

The rich selection of raspberry varieties is of course also a challenge. Which raspberry plant, which raspberry variety is the right one for me now. In the following, we will show you the most important questions you need to ask yourself before you can make a decision on a variety. But of course, in most cases, it makes sense to grow different varieties. Diversity makes garden life sweet...Especially the newer developments of double-bearing varieties, compact pot varieties and also of almost perennial-like, compact varieties under 100 cm in height make it possible to use the raspberries in the garden without the need for large and complex support measures. Thanks to the variety and breeding innovations, raspberry plants can also be used in unusual combinations alongside perennials in mixed perennial beds or on balconies and terraces.

Here is the checklist for selecting the right raspberry varieties and raspberry plants:

1) Do I want to grow autumn raspberries that bear fruit on this year's canes from August onwards, or do I prefer the classic summer raspberries that bear fruit on the overwintered canes in June/July? Of course, I can also choose the Twotimer raspberries, which combine both characteristics in the best way.

2) Do I want to grow raspberries in the garden, in the soil - or do I prefer raspberries for pots and tubs on the balcony and terrace?

3) Do I prefer a classic setup (with normal growing summer raspberries or autumn raspberries) on a raspberry support frame, or do I want to spread the raspberries in small groups in my garden? In the latter case, the double-bearing raspberry varieties and the dwarf raspberries are advantageous.

4) And of course, there are many additional free criteria such as the colour (red, yellow, amber, black, purple) and the height (normal growing raspberries with 180-250 cm long canes or dwarf raspberries with canes from 50 cm to 100 cm). We also offer thornless raspberries such as Autumn Amber and Malling Happy.

The Right Location for Raspberry Plants

Raspberries are basically simple and easy to care for - if they are cultivated in a very light, dry soil. In any case, they hate waterlogging even more than other plants. So as soon as you suspect a rather heavy loamy soil with more than enough water, raspberries should be planted on a dam/hill, which is heaped up with a mixture of garden soil, compost and, if necessary, sand for better permeability. Otherwise, raspberries need a sunny to semi-shady location, which should not be exposed to too much drying winter winds, as this often leads to cane damage in overwintering summer raspberries (which bear fruit on two-year-old canes).

When to Plant

Lubera is one of the largest producers of raspberry plants in Europe, so we actually have all varieties in stock 12 months a year in pots - and they can always be planted accordingly. We do not recommend late autumn planting in October/November, as the plants are usually too wet in the winter and root rot can occur. When planting autumn raspberries up to May, you can expect a first small harvest in the first year. When planting spring raspberries from mid/end of February, care must be taken to ensure that the root ball is strongly torn open before planting. We also recommend cutting back the young plants to approx. 10 cm, as this promotes root growth and the formation of new shoots. When developing young plants, the shoots already supplied with the young plant are largely unimportant. What is important, on the other hand, is that new shoots emerge from the base, which in the case of autumn raspberries will bear fruit the same year, and in the case of summer raspberries the following year. As far as the plant is concerned, the best time for planting raspberries is in the middle of summer from the middle of July. This is because in warm and dry topsoil the roots of the young plants have, so to speak, free rein and develop most quickly. Although you can then expect no more fruit in the same year, even with autumn raspberries, summer planting can give a raspberry young plant an excellent start even in a somewhat more difficult location (even if it has failed before).

Pruning Raspberry Plants

Ultimately, the cut must be distinguished from summer raspberries, autumn raspberries and Twotimer® raspberries. We will go into this in more detail in the category texts for the individual raspberry plant types. Basically, the most important pruning measures can be summarised as follows:

Cutting Summer Raspberries

- The two-year-old canes that bore fruit are cut to the ground after the harvest in August.

- The new canes are thinned out so that more air gets into the plant and 6-7 canes per running metre are left.

- If necessary, the second year's canes are cut back to the desired height at the end of February/beginning of March. The height of the supporting structure is usually decisive in this process - e.g. 2 m high.

Cutting Autumn Raspberries

- In early spring, the old canes are cut back to the ground or to 5 cm to create space and room for the new rods. These will start to bear fruit in August.

Cutting Twice-Bearing Raspberries

- In early spring, the weaker or already severely worn-out summer canes are removed completely.

- The remaining canes are cut back to about half their size. They will then form side shoots and will bear fruit again in June/July.

Cutting of Lowberry® Dwarf Raspberries

- Lowberry® dwarf raspberries are also cut back 20-40 cm in February March.

- Withered, very weak or already completely worn canes are completely removed.

- The longer you leave the old shoots, the higher the summer yield in June/July; the more you cut back, the stronger the autumn yield will be.

- The later dwarf raspberry Little Red Princess should be pruned higher (more summer yield). The very early raspberry Lowberry® Raspberry Little Sweet Sister can be pruned lower because the new canes will already produce fruit at the beginning of July.

Fertilising Raspberry Plants

Raspberry roots grow flat and thus help themselves in the most active and warmest soil layer with the most important nutrients and minerals. Therefore, it certainly makes sense to fertilise the raspberry plants by applying compost every spring. A very thin layer (1 cm) of compost is applied and lightly chopped. Under no circumstances should a layer of mulch be created, as this isolates the underlying soil layers, making them colder and wetter, which is not beneficial to the raspberry in the long term. Chopping in the compost fertiliser is absolutely unproblematic; there is no need to be afraid of damaging roots. On the contrary, it is positive, because it forces the resulting canes sections to form dormant buds into shoots. In addition, we recommend an application of 70 g Frutilizer Compound Fertiliser Plus per m² in March, repeated again in the summer.

Raspberries are Healthy

Since ancient times both raspberry blossoms and raspberry leaves have been used as medication. They have an anti-inflammatory effect and are mainly used in the throat and oral cavity, for colds or digestive disorders. While until the Middle Ages these medicinal plant uses seemed to be more important than the fruits, today the superfood properties of raspberries are of particular interest.

On the one hand, the anthocyanins, which have an antioxidant effect, are in focus here. Furthermore, studies have shown that the polyphenols present in the berries (including anthocyanins) are obviously beneficial to health and can prevent or delay the onset of Parkinson's disease. The also relatively high content of iron (1 mg) and magnesium (30 mg per 100 g iron) has a blood-forming and blood-purifying effect, magnesium is very important for muscle function. Among the vitamins, vitamin C (25 mg per 100 g berries), vitamin E, B1, B2 and B6 are particularly worth mentioning. Folate is also found in the raspberry, a derivative of folic acid.

But in the end, it's all a question of dosage: as a raspberry breeder, the writer knows that over 200 g of raspberries per day almost certainly lead to diarrhoea, over 300-400g almost inevitably result in an extremely strong feeling of fullness (probably caused by the acids and tannins associated with the seeds), which usually ends with vomiting. One is therefore well-advised not to eat more than 150-200 g raspberries per day - as healthy as they are.

The History of Garden Raspberries

When Linnaeus chose the botanical name Rubus idaeus for the European forest and garden raspberry in the 18th century, he also drew on ancient sources when naming it, which refer to the raspberries as Ida fruits, as fruits from Mount Ida. Even today, there is still uncertainty as to whether this could mean the Ida Mountains in Asia Minor or Mount Ida in Greece. Since raspberries do not occur in Greece where Mount Ida is located, people tend towards the Asia Minor origin solution (at least the name). Until well into the Middle Ages, medical and botanical literature was dominated by the medicinal use of plant parts as anti-inflammatory agents. But in the 4th century A.D. the fruits are also mentioned and since the 17th century, they appear more and more frequently in connection with fruit wines, fruit juices and also food colouring.

The cultivation for the markets near the city and the increased use in the garden then began at the end of the 18th century and in the 19th century. The genetic basis of the plant was initially broadened purely by chance and later deliberately by hybridising and crossing the European raspberries Rubus idaeus subsp vulgatus with the North American wild raspberries Rubus idaeus subsp strigosus, both in Europe and North America. This leads above all to a significant increase in fruit size, which is achieved by combining the conical fruit shape of the European raspberry with the more rounded fruit shape of the American raspberries. Today, there is probably no raspberry on the market or in the garden that does not have ancestors in Europe and America. This internationality should always be kept in mind when somewhere else native plants are once again praised over the green clover and played off against their foreign counterparts. Would you like to do without raspberries just because they partly come from America? Or even on the apple, which has demonstrably made its way from Kazakhstan to us (and to the whole world)?

Even the more intensive raspberry breeding in the first half of the 20th century is still largely based on the two subspecies mentioned above (vulgatus and strigosus), and the English variety Lloyd George, which directly or indirectly produced almost all the autumn raspberries of the 20th century, plays a dominant role. Towards the end of the 20th century, a large number of other Rubus species from the ideobatus section (raspberry-like, fruit detaches from the fruit base) were crossed in, mainly with the aim of shortening the ripening period and, above all, the time from flowering to ripe fruit. This work, which could justifiably be described as a real transformation of the garden raspberry, was only made possible by autumn raspberries such as Autumn Bliss and its improved successors such as Autumn Best® and Autumn First®. We are proud that in the Lubera raspberry plant assortment we even have a raspberry, Little Sweet Sister®, which is already bearing its first fruits at the beginning of July.

The Names of the Raspberry

When Linnaeus first published the botanical name for European garden and forest raspberries, he drew on the ancient reports of the shrubs and berries of Mount Ida, as mentioned above. Thus, when idaeus refers to Mount Ida on Crete or in Asia Minor, rubus means nothing other than a shrub and is based either on the word Latin ruber (for red) or on the Indo-European root reub (compare: rasp, pluck). And really: whoever wants to cultivate the soil must for better or worse, must pluck and pull out wild raspberry bushes... By the way, the reference to the Cretan mountain Ida is anything but certain, at least modern researchers have not found any raspberries there, and so the mountain Ida in Asia Minor (in today's Turkey) has also been considered... Since Greek -ida also means wood or forest, the geographically complicated derivation of the name can be dispensed with, as Helmut Genaust writes in his etymological dictionary of botanical plant names. The raspberry with its Latin name means nothing else but the wood that is to be called. As already mentioned above: you can only get rid of the perennial raspberry by pulling it out of the ground when cultivating or using the land for grazing!

In English, the word raspberry has also been common and known since time immemorial. The folk etymological interpretation, according to which rasp could possibly stand for rasp and mean something like hot/sour, is probably not correct. In Anglo-Saxon, rasp means root shoot and plant shoot. This is exactly what the Anglo-Saxon nature observers saw in the raspberry: a shoot that always develops from the roots and bears fruit...

The Germanic-German term "Himbeeren" is based on another observation: namely that raspberries, the sweet fruits, but especially the fresh leaves are very popular with game. The raspberry probably goes back to Hintbere and means the berry of the doe (roe deer), the hind.

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