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Autumn raspberries (fruits on 1-year canes)

HerbsthimbeerenAutumn raspberries bear their fruits on this year's canes. This distinguishes the
autumn raspberry varieties fundamentally from the summer raspberries, http://www.lubera.co.uk/search?sSearch=summer+raspberries which only produce fruit on two-year-old canes. While the summer raspberries are to be harvested in June and July, the fruit ripening of the autumn raspberries (which first must develop their shoots and flowers from scratch) starts in August and lasts until autumn – that is probably why the term "autumn raspberries" has been used. Actually, autumn raspberries are also the simplest of the raspberry varieties because of the cultivation and the pruning. With the autumn raspberries there is only one type of cane that grows in the same year, blooms and also fruits.

Autumn Raspberries In The Lubera Garden Shop

For the raspberry lover and for the home gardener, this simplicity is certainly crucial in deciding on one of the many delicious autumn raspberry varieties in the Lubera garden shop. Autumn raspberries are very useful because they continuously produce fruit from midsummer to autumn and are therefore perfect for the continuous supply of a household with wonderful raspberry fruits. What could be better and easier than to pick a bowl full of plump, ripe, dark red and sweet autumn raspberry fruits in the evening while walking through the garden and then enjoying them in the next few days at dessert or for breakfast – if any berries are still left after the pleasurable garden tour!

   
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Autumn raspberry Schlaraffia® Naschmich (Nibbleme)

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Autumn raspberry Schlaraffia® Plentiful

Large yields are guaranteed!

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Bundle with 18 Primeberries Autumn Belle®

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

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Bundle with 18 Primeberries Autumn Best

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

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Bundle with 18 Primeberries Autumn First

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

Instead of: £115.90 * £103.40 *

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Bundle with 18 Primeberry® Autumn Amber®

Enough plants for a row approx. 4-5 m in length

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Bundle with 36 Primeberries Autumn Belle®

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

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Bundle with 36 Primeberries Autumn Best

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

Instead of: £231.40 * £164.90 *

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Bundle with 36 Primeberries Autumn First

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in length

Instead of: £231.40 * £164.90 *

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Bundle with 36 Primeberry® Autumn Amber®

Enough plants for a row approx. 8-10 m in lenght

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Dwarf Raspberry Lowberry® Baby Dwarf®

The most compact dwarf raspberry

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Dwarf Raspberry Lowberry® Goodasgold

The yellow, early autumn raspberry for pots

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Autumn Raspberry Varieties Offer The Most Diverse Selection

As we have been concentrating on the development of easy-to-cultivate and abundant fruiting autumn raspberries in Lubera's own breeding programme for the past 10 years, today we can offer a very wide range of autumn raspberry varieties that leave nothing to be desired.  These self-bred autumn raspberry varieties are based on colour choices, different flavours, growth types and growth heights and are proudly named with our brand name Lubera® Primeberries®.

Most of the Primeberry® autumn raspberries can be harvested in early August, e.g. also the medium-compact growing Primeberry® Autumn Belle ( http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/autumn-raspberries-fruits-on-1-year-canes/raspberry-primeberry-autumn-belle). The thornless Primeberry® Malling Happy® (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/lubera-novelties/novelties-2017/raspberry-frambeasy-malling-happy) produces the biggest fruits and in addition an excellent taste; our standard variety (Primeberry®Autum First® http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/autumn-raspberries-fruits-on-1-year-canes/raspberry-primeberry-autumn-first ) proves again and again at various locations to be very robust and regularly bearing, while Primeberry® Autumn Best (® http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/autumn-raspberries-fruits-on-1-year-canes/raspberry-primeberry-autumn-best ) indulges the pleasure for the home gardener with the most aromatic fruits, however it definitely needs a light soil for growing success. So far, we have only mentioned the red-fruited autumn raspberry varieties. With the autumn raspberries we have developed a whole range of new fruit colours in recent years: Autumn Sun®, (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/autumn-raspberries-fruits-on-1-year-canes/raspberry-primeberry-autumn-sun) Sugana® (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/raspberries-with-two-harvests/raspberry-twotimer-yellow-sugana) and Malling Passion develop the largest, and most importantly, bright yellow raspberries.  With the highly aromatic and thornless Autumn Amber® (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/yellow-raspberries/raspberry-frambeasy-autumn-amber) the yellow tends to be slightly orange; it is rather amber-coloured and was introduced in autumn 2017. The Primeberry® variety Malling Passion (® http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/soft-fruit/raspberry/black-raspberries/raspberry-primeberry-malling-passion)  is dark purple in colour. In the Lubera assortment of autumn raspberries no colour desire and hardly any other raspberry wish remains unfulfilled. You will find the right variety for your garden here in the Lubera garden shop. And if not? Then just plant...two varieties. ;-)

Do Autumn Raspberries Really Only Ripen In Autumn?

The answer is no! As we have said above, the term "autumn raspberries" was coined when the first autumn raspberry varieties were introduced on the market because they did not bear fruit until the end of August, and partly from the beginning of September. Autumn raspberries were really still autumn raspberries. The great breakthrough of this type of raspberry, which ripens on one-year-old canes, came with the Autumn Bliss variety, which had ripe fruits in good growing regions as early as the beginning of August, which we left far behind in terms of quality and size with our new Primeberry® autumn raspberry varieties.  With a new raspberry breed we have even been able to push the ripening of autumn raspberries even further forward – our dwarf raspberry Lowberry® Little Sweet Sister® (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/lubera-novelties/novelties-2017/lowberry-raspberry-little-sweet-sister) starts its yield well in July! In this respect, the concept of autumn raspberries has been somewhat overhauled by the development of new varieties – but it remains valid, as autumn raspberries fruit after the summer raspberries and many autumn raspberries (such as Autumn First® and Autumn Best®, but also Malling Passion®) bring their fruit to maturity in the autumn months.

Planting Autumn Raspberries

Like most berry plants in the Lubera garden shop, the autumn raspberry plants can be planted all year round. As the best and easiest time, however, the summer has crystallised because then the fresh roots of the young plantlets can immediately grow out into the warm and rather dry summer soil. When planting in autumn or in the spring, it is very important to break up the root ball of the raspberry young plants before planting and, if necessary, cut open, so as to force the roots of the young plants to grow out of the cosy root ball. If, after planting in the autumn or March to May, you want a beautiful and rewarding harvest in the first year, it is best to plant at a distance of 30 cm; if you have a little more patience and can wait 2 to 4 years for a full yield, a planting distance of 50 cm is also enough.

Growing Autumn Raspberries In A Pot

Of course, autumn raspberries do not only have to be cultivated outside in the garden, but they can also be grown in containers and pots on the terrace. It is most important that the bottom of the pot has holes and a special drainage layer which ensures good drainage. As for the size, you can start growing your autumn raspberries in a 15 L container, for long-term success, it is better to change as quickly as possible to container with a volume between 30-50 L because the stress tolerance of the plants is greater. Higher growing autumn raspberries such as Malling Happy® needs support in the pot due to its heavy fruits; compact varieties like Little Red Princess® or Lowberry® Little Sweet Sister® can be grown without support, as they naturally have reduced and stable growth.

The Right Location For Autumn Raspberries

Autumn raspberries love a sunny location, preferably in full sun; and ideally also a bit airy, so that the canes and especially the ripening sweet fruits can always dry well and thus fungi (such as grey mould) is kept at bay. The soil should be humus and rather light, and it should always drain very well. If the ground is too heavy or if the location is rather wet, it is important to plant the raspberry on a 30-40 cm high earth wall that is made from a mixture of garden soil, sand and compost. If you do no have compost, Lubera's Fruitful Soil No. 2 (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/substrate/substrate/the-fruitful-soil-no.-2-planting-soil) can also be used.

When Do You Cut Back Autumn Raspberries?

Autumn raspberry plants should be cut back in early spring, shortly before the new growth starts, in late February or early March. Since garden friends like to bring order to in their garden already in autumn, we are often asked if the canes can be back in the autumn. Our answer is: No! Please do not! Of course, even an autumn cut does not do too much damage, but it tends to remove reserves that can help the plant hibernate. Each green leaf part produces energy until late autumn, until the first strong frosts, which the plant needs during overwintering and spring sprouting. It is therefore definitely not helpful if these energy sources are removed prematurely at the end of September or in October. And one more thing: in a healthy autumn raspberry planting, many beneficial insects, such as predatory mites have settled and would thus otherwise be removed if the canes were cut back during the autumn months.

How To Cut Back Autumn Raspberries?

Cutting back autumn raspberries is really the easiest thing in the world: at the end of February or the beginning of March, all of the canes are simply cut back to the ground. At best, a stub of 5 to 10 cm should be left standing. It is also important that per metre 2-3 of the cut canes are simply placed in the row: this should help the beneficial insects from last year to colonise the freshly growing young canes in the spring.

Harvesting Autumn Raspberry Fruits

For autumn raspberries it is even more important than for the summer raspberries that the ripe fruits are harvested continuously, i.e. every 2-3 days. Thus, even in rainy periods in the summer and autumn, the fungus Botrytis has no chance to attack the overripe fruits and then additionally infect even fresh, new fruits. Likewise, regular and clean harvesting is an important preventive measure against the spotted wing drosophila, which can multiply wonderfully in overripe and decayed fruits. Nevertheless, if overripe and rotten fruits are produced, they are better disposed of in the waste bin rather than in the compost pile, so as not to encourage the propagation of the spotted wing drosophila in your own garden. In contrast to the spotted wing drosophila, the autumn raspberries are free of raspberry worms, since the biology of the raspberry beetle does not provide for oviposition in the summer.

Premature and Late Autumn Raspberries

If you want to force the harvest of autumn raspberries, build a small plastic tunnel over the raspberry row in February or March, so that the canes develop faster. Of course, then the tunnel must be removed immediately 4-8 weeks later, once the first canes touch the plastic roof. Alternatively and with a little less effort, you can simply lay a cellulose vegetable fleece over the planting in February so that a greenhouse effect with higher temperatures and also higher humidity is achieved underneath – with correspondingly stronger growth. Make sure that the fleece is not stretched too tightly over the plants, but is loosely laid and can also be loosened if necessary, so that the growing canes have enough air space. These forcing techniques reliably lead to an approximately 14 to 20 days earlier harvest.

Conversely, of course, it may make sense to delay the harvest, especially if you go on holiday regularly in the first half of August. The simplest method is to cut back the young canes completely at the end of April or in the first half of May, thus forcing them to start afresh. This delays the harvest until late August and early September, until the end of your holiday.

Proper Fertilisation Of Autumn Raspberries

Autumn raspberries have a great need for nutrients, as they produce new canes and fruits every year, which are later removed from the bed and the planting without replacement. With autumn raspberries, you should start the fertilisation year with the introduction of a thin layer of well-fermented green compost, which is then slightly hacked. Do not be afraid to hurt the superficial roots of the autumn raspberries; such injuries are not negative, but promote the budding of the adventitious buds attached to the roots with the (desired) result of producing more new canes. When placing the compost, make sure that you do not close the grown garden floor with a thick compost cover (see the section on mulching). In March, when the plant and roots are slowly awakening, the organic fertiliser is supplemented with the Frutilizer Compound Fertiliser Plus (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/fertilizer/fertilizer/frutilizer-compound-fertiliser-plus ) (70 grams per m², which also adds valuable organic material. This is then repeated again in May to early June in order to support the flowering and fruiting of the autumn raspberries.

What To Do Against Yellow Leaves In Autumn Raspberries

Relatively frequently, we hear from our customers that they notice yellowish leaves on the autumn raspberries in the summer, especially in the lower part of the canes, but sometimes also further up, which brightens the leaf blades. With such symptoms, one should closely observe the underside of the leaves, as to whether a mite or red spider infestation can be detected. In very strong infestations, you can even observe the animals with the naked eye; the whitening by mites is also more spotted and speckled than flat. If this is the case, it is definitely worth cutting off a few canes from healthy autumn raspberry plantings and placing them in a water bucket in their own planting, in order to locate as many predatory mites as possible for combatting the harmful mites.

Iron deficiency is more responsible for the yellow leaves than red spider mites. The autumn raspberries canes must produce extraordinary things during flowering and ripening and sometimes cannot absorb enough iron. These symptoms can be easily and quickly remedied by an iron chelation fertiliser, which is applied two to three times every two weeks.

It is best to use our self-developed iron fertiliser Frutilizer Instant Solution (http://www.lubera.co.uk/plants/fertilizer/fertilizer/frutilizer-instant-solution-fe) (dissolve 5 grams in 10 litres of water). The fertiliser mixture should only be applied below the leaf zone. If you want to let the iron fertiliser work even faster, a foliar application is also possible; please dissolve only 2 grams of fertiliser in 10 litres of water in order to prevent burns.

Why You Cannot Mulch Raspberries In General And Autumn Raspberries In Particular

Of course, it is understandable if you want to mulch berry crops such as autumn raspberries with bark cuttings or grass clippings: but when growing raspberries you should definitely do without mulching, and for the following three reasons:

1. Mulching results in a physical cover over the root zone and hinders the growth of young canes and even the awakening and growth of the adventitious buds on the roots, from which all canes originate. Mulching thus leads to fewer canes, corresponding to less yield.

2. The mulch layer has an insulating effect. Especially in autumn, winter and spring, this causes the soil to be colder, the roots to react later and the shoot growth to fall behind. That alone might not be so bad if the biggest enemy of the raspberry plant, Phytophthora root rot, would not love the cool soil and can spread much faster than in the warm soil.

3. Finally, the layer of mulch also keeps the raspberry soil wet and moist. Now one might think that this in turn could benefit the plant development and the fruit size – but much more decisive than this possibly positive effect is again the fact that the root rot feels much more comfortable in a moist to wet soil and it also spreads very much faster than in drier soil. The best for healthy raspberry growth in pots as well as in the garden is always dry cultivation. The raspberry, but also the autumn raspberry, is much healthier on the edge of drought than wading in the water.

The Goals Of Lubera Autumn Raspberry Breeding

The autumn raspberry breeding at Lubera® is one of our largest breeding projects, in which 5 to 15 new crosses are made each year and a few thousand seeds are produced. In addition to the breeding programme in Buchs, we have also set up another breeding project in the South of England, together with East Malling Research (NIAB) (http://www.emr.ac.uk/). Here we are also developing new and better home garden varieties. Essentially, we are pursuing the following breeding goals with regard to a simple, pleasurable and successful raspberry cultivation in the home garden:

- Intensive and aromatic-tasting fruits

- Different fruit colours

- Fruit size, but not necessarily fruit strength; in my opinion, the size of the fruit remains an important breeding goal as long as a berry remains under the size of a bite, i.e. it is still bite-sized. A bigger berry simply means more enjoyment, more juice, more experience (assuming it's not just watery. ;-)

- Earlier yields

- Compact growth

- Thornless

- Robustness and especially resistant to Phytophthora

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