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Raspberries with two harvests

Twotimer raspberry plants bear fruit twice in the same year: first in June and July on the two-year-old canes, and then again in August on this year’s canes. So if you want to harvest delicious raspberry fruits twice a year in a small space, then this type of plant is perfect for you. Lubera first discovered this type of plant and then launched the best Twotimer raspberry varieties to date. You are sure to find the most suitable raspberry plants for your twice-a-year harvest here in the Lubera® garden shop.

Twotimer Raspberry Plants – The Growth Type Makes The Difference

Now, one could argue, that basically all autumn raspberries are not only fruiting on this year's canes, but also on the two-year-old shoots if you do not cut them down completely. But in “common” autumn raspberry varieties, this double crop is usually a bad compromise, which in the end leaves both harvests, the summer harvest and the autumn harvest, unsatisfactory. For genuine Twotimer® varieties, we have bred and selected special varieties of autumn raspberries that can grow stronger than average (and thus withstand the double load), which have a strong tip development (= upright growth) and which produce fruit on this year's fresh shoots, especially in the upper area. This ensures that the lower tier of the two-year-old wood still contains fresh, not yet worn-off flower buds and in the spring of the second year can produce enough fruitful side shoots.

Buy Twotimer Raspberry Plants – Twotimer® Raspberries

All these criteria are met by the two original Twotimer® varieties Twotimer® ‘Sugana Red’ and Twotimer® ‘Sugana Yellow’, which come from our own Lubera breeding programme. They are among the largest fruit varieties in our assortment and satisfy gourmet gardeners with their fine, raspberry-typical aroma. Both siblings (the yellow Sugana is a mutation from the red Sugana Twotimer® raspberry) show a strong, upright habit and in August/September they bear fruit mostly in the upper half of the canes, thus keeping the lower half of the canes ready for next year's yield.

   
 
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Pruning Twotimer Raspberry Plants Correctly

If you want more, you have to do something more. This applies to both the "busy" Twotimer® raspberries and the raspberry gardener. Of course, pruning raspberry bushes that bear fruit twice is a little bit more complicated than with the normal autumn raspberries, which can simply be cut down in February...But actually only two cutting rules have to be applied consistently with the Twotimer® raspberry varieties.

Rule #1: in February, cut off all of the upper shoots that have already borne fruit. These shoots are clearly visible on the leftover fruit mummies and fruit stalks. If you become unsure when cutting, you can also rely on a simple rule of thumb and reduce all of the shoots by at least one third. Then most of the cane parts that have already borne fruit are reliably removed.

Rule #2: if you were now to let all the shoots grow, the plant would be overwhelmed: the yield of all of the 2-year-old canes would go at the expense of the autumn yield on the one-year shoots or would reduce the development of the new canes. So you should accordingly cut about half of all the old canes down again completely. Or the other way around: per plant there should only be about two two-year old canes, which will then fruit between June and July.

The Best Use For Twotimer Raspberry Plants In The Garden

Of course, Twotimer® raspberries can also be trained and stabilised in the classic raspberry way with 2 to 4 horizontal wires. Thanks to the rules of thumb described above (leave about half of the canes, cut them back by 30%), the necessary cutting measures can be carried out here simply and quickly. Nevertheless, the concept of twice-fruiting raspberry plants is particularly suitable for smaller gardens where there is no room for plantation-like raspberry rows that are several metres long. It is of great advantage to be able to harvest delicious raspberry fruits from the same raspberry bushes twice in the same year: more fruits, i.e. less plant volume, which also requires less garden space.

Double Stake Cultivation System For Twice-Bearing Raspberry Bushes (On A Trellis)

In the smallest space, the simplest cultivation system for Twotimer® raspberries can be done by placing two stakes that are approx. 2.5 m in length at a distance of 50 cm from each other. These are pounded about 50 cm into the ground and are therefore stable enough to withstand wind and weather and can help carry a big crop. Two to three Twotimer® raspberry plants are planted between the framework stakes, either side by side or at a distance of about 40 cm. On one of the two stakes, the newly growing young canes should be tied up and they will then produce fruit starting in August. At the other stake there are the canes from last year, which have been shortened by approx. 30% and which have already borne fruit on their lower side shoots in June/July.

Twotimer Raspberry Varieties – Ideal For Growing In Pots

With the same justification as in smaller gardens, the Twotimer® raspberries are also particularly well suited for growing in pots: you also harvest fruits twice in a small space instead of just once... what could be better?  The Twotimer® varieties are therefore particularly well suited because they have a very upright habit. Nevertheless, in pots (as well as when grown in small gardens) a small framework is necessary to give the canes support. For example, pyramid-shaped trellises or two iron bars, which can be used analogously to the two poles in the double stake system.

Breeding Twotimer Raspberry Varieties At Lubera®

Both the original Twotimer® varieties Twotimer® ‘Sugana Yellow’ and ‘Sugana Red’ as well as the entire cultivation concept of the double-bearing raspberries have been invented by us, by Lubera. In retrospect, the system seems simple and obvious, but you can only come up with such simple ideas if, like Lubera®, you not only breed the plants yourself, but also test and try them yourself. We will continue to select other varieties for Twotimer® cultivation in the future. To withstand the double burden, it will always be more vigorous and tall autumn raspberries that are robust and fertile enough to produce two crops per year. The breeding and selection work will continue in any case, to make your success with Lubera raspberries in the garden easier and more reliable – ideally at least twice a year. ;-)

Raspberries For Growing In Pots

Raspberries can be grown in pots without too much trouble if you choose the right varieties. Ultimately, it is an old garden dream, which comes true: the raspberry land of plenty, to be able to pick all of the sweet and noble berry fruits of the garden – especially the raspberries – just not in the back garden corner, but at any time within reach. If you go up to them a little closer, they almost grow into your mouth! This cultivation of raspberries is also possible for garden lovers who do not have a large garden and want to enjoy life to the full and realise their garden dreams on their balconies and terraces.

The Selection Of The Best Raspberry Varieties Growing In Pots – Of Course From The Lubera® Garden Shop

The most important requirement for growing raspberries in pots is choosing the right variety. First of all, we can severely restrict the huge variety of available raspberry varieties through the exclusion process: summer raspberries that bear on biennial canes are definitely not suitable for growing in pots: their harvest window, usually only 4 weeks, is too short, the healthy overwintering of the canes too difficult to make the potted cultivation of summer raspberries on the terrace attractive. If we now want to narrow the target group of suitable varieties even further, we must ask ourselves what is particularly important if we want to grow raspberries in a pot or container. Here is the answer: FIRST, a simple crop and secondly a long harvest period id needed. This puts the Twotimer® raspberries in the centre with their two harvest windows (picking raspberries for a total of three months is a good idea). They also have an upright habit and strong, robust growth. However, they can only be cultivated with a support or climbing aid in the pot. Next, of course, the Lowberry® raspberries are suitable for pots, especially the variety Lowberry® Little Sweet Sister® because it also has a long harvest window (ripe fruit from early July to late September) and compact growth below 1 m in height. It therefore can be cultivated very easily in pots without a support.

Are Summer Raspberries Also Suitable For Pots?

As mentioned, summer raspberries are rather less suitable for pots. Their harvest window is too short to expect a garden lover to take all the work and effort of the crop for just 3-4 weeks of harvesting pleasure. Also, pruning summer raspberries is relatively complicated because on the one hand, the newly grown canes for the next year are overwintered and the other hand, the old canes must be removed in the summer after the harvest.  A good substitute, however, are the Twotimer® raspberries, as they also bear fruit on the two-year-old canes first in June/July (just like the summer raspberries, rather even a little earlier) and then again starting in mid-August.

Planting Potted Raspberries Properly!

The right support for the raspberry pot and the correct planting are decisive for the success in addition to the variety. Here are the most important tips for successfully growing raspberries in pots:

1. Pot size: choose the largest possible pot, approx. 15 litres; 30 litres or more are better still.

2. Water drainage: the pot or container must have very good water drainage. It is worth it in almost all cases to drill additional water drainage holes, possibly with a large diameter.

3. No saucer: the pot must never – I stress never! – stand in a saucer or closed planter: if raspberries do not tolerate something, then it is stagnant water.

4. Drainage layer: in the bottom layer (15-20% of the total volume) fill a drainage layer with gravel, Styrofoam or Lecca, on top of which comes a layer of fleece, which prevents rooting and also prevents fine particles from penetrating into the drainage layer and gradually clogging the pores.

5. Earth substrate: choose a loose, very coarse substrate for containers. Lubera® potted soil, Fertile Soil No. 1, has been created according to these criteria and is ideal for longer term container cultivation of demanding plants such as raspberries.

6. Raspberry young plants: buy 1-2 young plants for a 15 litre pot and 2-3 young plants for a 30 litre container. Such an elaborately put together and designed pot should indeed be filled as quickly as possible and produce the desired fruit yield.

7. Breaking up the root ball: break up the root ball of the young plants radically and brutally before planting. This is even more important when planting in autumn or in the spring.

8. Planting time: since the suitable raspberry varieties are all available in pots here in the Lubera® garden shop, they can be bought and planted at any time. With regard to the possible planting dates, it is necessary to weigh up various advantages and disadvantages. A quick growth rate in which the young plants spread their roots in the pot is best for summer planting (July to mid-September); however, you can expect a first harvest only in the following year. In a spring planting until May you can enjoy the first fruits in the same autumn. With this promising view most of the containers are planted in the spring. Here it is very important that the young plants are cut back to about 10 cm during planting and that – as already emphasized above – the root ball is severely broken apart, indeed torn open. Only then do the old roots that were stressed throughout the winter in the pot (because they were too wet) make their journey of discovery in their new container home...

How Can You Reliably Overwinter Potted Raspberries?

The overwintering of raspberry plants in the garden is not a big problem, but potted raspberries are a bit more delicate. Ultimately, there are three external actions that can harm them in the winter:

- Too much rainfall in the winter, causing the pot to be constantly too wet

- Too much strong, direct sunlight, which dries up the pot and the canes, but above all, provides signals too early that spring is already there.

- Cold winds that can dry out and damage the canes.

All of these negative factors are best avoided if winter raspberries are overwintered in a cool, rather shady, but sheltered place outside. If a shady overwintering place cannot be provided, the entire plant can be wrapped in insulating fleece in order to keep the sun away and at the same time ease the cold temperatures. Note: so that no misunderstandings arise – even raspberries in pots need the winter; they need the cold to start again in the spring – so please never overwinter them indoors in a warm room...

The Right Time To Cut Potted Raspberries

Of course, the same rule applies here as with raspberry pruning: cutting back should only be done in early spring, e.g. in late February or early March, just before the new growing season begins. An early cut in the autumn removes important reserve substances from the plant and cutting back in the spring gives us the chance to react again to any winter damage (some canes or parts of the canes could be damaged or withered). Here's an additional cutting tip: with the Twotimer® raspberries in pots, if you keep 2-3 shoots that are 100-130 cm long (after cutting off the upper parts) you should choose canes that are rather younger and thinner. Of course you should not choose the weakest and shortest canes; as almost always, the happy medium is best: the choice of medium-strong canes usually gives the best results in the second year. The Lowberry® raspberries are uniformly cut back to 30 cm. If the supply of canes is too dense, the medium thick canes are left here too and the rest are cut down completely to the ground.

The Benefits Of Growing Raspberries In Pots

You may now wonder whether growing a plant that has always been cultivated in the soil is really possible. Today, however, a large part of the professional cultivation is already done in pots, on the one hand because it works very well, but then also because the plants can always be grown in the same place, even if they have been exchanged. Finally, no soil-borne diseases are to be expected in well-drained pot cultivation. All of these reasons for purchasing plants cultivated in a pot are also good reasons for cultivating the plants in a pot in your garden: in the pot, even those who dare try a raspberry experiment in the garden, at best with heavy and wet soil, the garden raspberries just do not want to grow.  And additionally, you should not grow raspberries again at the same location (reproduction problems): if a raspberry planted in a pot does not work satisfactorily, simply plant a new one and the cultivation process starts anew. This can’t be done with a row of raspberries in the garden that has become too old, attracting viruses or where root rot has spread.

Let's get started: now you have the perfect excuse – to grow and enjoy the wonderful raspberries very close to your life, on your balcony or terrace! You know about planting the right varieties – namely the Twotimer® raspberries and Little Sweet Sister® here in the Lubera® garden shop and now you also know the most important tricks...so get started with your new raspberries today!

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